digital Amp. Going green


Any thing out there between $3000 to $5000 in the digital amp arena that has altered your desire for using tube base amplification?
128x128kabir
I have picked up the CI Audio D200 to replace my tubes amps during the summer months. Last summer the system put out so much heat that after an hour my room was just too hot, and I was force to turn the system off. At first I tried the BAT 600se but sold it three months later because they never warmed up to me, I then picked up the CI Audio D200s mainly because they were small and from what I read they had a “tube” type sound. To my ears the CI Audio D200 sounds pretty good they are smooth easy on the ear and at the same time they are very detailed. IMHO it was a good move. But I also am going to keep my tube amps around because there’s nothing like a very good tube amp period. YMMV
I can see myself also looking into the H2O Audio Signature M250 monos as well.
I have CI D200 amps (five of them) which replaced CarverPro ZR1600 amps (three of them) in my multichannel system. The D200 amps are fine-sounding, and not too expensive. However, I don't think that they are significantly (if at all) better than the ZR1600s, which produce more power at half the cost. All this driving Maggie 1.6 speakers. Neither amp generates heat.
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Check out Gilmore Audio. I have the stereo Raven amp (250 wpc into 4 ohms), which is overkill power-wise for my Druids, and costs $3500. If you need more power, the Raptor monos produce 500wpc for $5000. They are built like tanks, sound great (beat out Atmasphere and NuForce in my system - see review section for details), have bass control and punch in spades, and are 93dB efficient.
http://www.glacieraudio.com/new%20Glacier%20Audio%20Site/Products%20folder/Gilmore/Gilmore-amps.htm
Like Moe,I too still own a tube amplifier although it sees less and less time in my system. I've auditioned five other switching amplifiers and to my ears none of them offer the same presentation as the tubed amp. Nor can the tubed amp offer the attractive characteristics of the switchers.

In my system the key to going green is the battery powered preamp. The class D's low current draw at idle is the only standby usage. Not until I power up a front end component does my AC usage increase and because of class D's efficiency even that draw is minimal. The convenience of simply powering the source component I find to be an incredible luxury.

Vic