DIY speaker isolation base for a wood floor


A definite sonic improvement in tightening up the bass. 
1. Start with 4 aluminum cones. I used some old Mod Squad Tip Toes.
2. 16x16 slab of granite.
3. 1/8 cork.
4. 1/2 inch neoprene rubber.
5. 1/8 cork.
6. Top with another 16x16 slab of granite.
7. Enclosed with a wood cradle to hide the mechanism.
  The granite is from scraps from a shop and was cheap. The added 1/4 inch of neoprene to 1/2 inch thickness did help. Let me hear your thoughts.
128x128blueranger
Michael, Folks would generally be much better off if they believed in too much rather than too little. Would you believe I’m using mass-on-spring isolation right now? No, I’m not hot dogging you. 🌭 There are a great many advantages to small battery powered systems, as I’ve oft described. 
Me, I need to move mine:

Real Heavy Speakers on 3 Wheels. 3 = more weight per wheel than 4, and 3 is always self-leveling.

Current big box, 3 way, 15" woofer, horn mid, horn tweeter, I am guessing between 150-200lbs ea.

3 wheel caution. I have blocks just above the floor at the rear corners, the edge of the centered 3rd wheel, to prevent tipping, especially as they are tilted back as well. If it tips in any direction, the raised corner blocks then hit the floor, preventing further tip.

tilt: a concealed block at the front above the front 2 wheels tilts the speaker back, both time alignment and altering angle of reflections off the floor and ceiling.

Move to precise listening position, or push out of the way (some or a lot).

I've done the isolation/spike thing, with these, other 120lb speakers, and lighter ones. With enough weight I like wheels.

My JSE Model 2's, 125 lbs each, came with factory wheels.

https://www.google.com/search?q=jse+model+2&sxsrf=ACYBGNSrOb458uz5Jwdm0yyn06W5XsOqNw:1576775349791&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=5zrM1YT0ijckLM%253A%252CuIXJGK1HDmXTvM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQ2cALZwZ45VVbDYcUebQJmdxiZWQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjNlfX0mcLmAhVrUN8KHeWzDPMQ9QEwAHoECAcQBg#imgrc=5zrM1YT0ijckLM:

Tried em, spiked em, no improvement obvious to anyone, so I changed 4 wheels to 3 on them. They had their own time aligned slanted front panel, and I just carefully avoided tipping. Loved them for many years, Son Chris has them now.





Thanks for all your opinions. When finances allow I might get those springs that Geofkait sells.

"There is no such thing as decoupling in audio. That’s just a talking point from those who are dampening (1). Once you put your speakers in a room all the physics of that room and the speaker becomes one and the same (2)."

1: We are not dampening (to make wet ;-), we are damping (reducing the physical vibrations is a solid material). Those who contend hi-fi components are themselves musical instruments (a silly contention ;-) and should be left to resonate, are against damping. Those of use who don’t consider components music makers but rather music reproducers, are for it.

2: We need to make a distinction between the physical mass of a pair of loudspeakers from the acoustic sound they propagate with a room. Those speakers are ACOUSTICALLY inseparable from the room (the room is to the speakers as the speaker enclosures are to rear output of their drivers). That does not mean the speakers cannot be PHYSICALLY isolated from the surface of the room upon which they sit. Whether or not you want to separate them is another matter.

@blueranger, GK’s springs are ridiculously-low priced compared with all similar products (the Townshend Audio Seismic line, for instance), and a great way to find out if you prefer decoupling to coupling (spikes, cones) of your speakers. But remember, as Geoff has correctly stated here numerous times, spikes and cones provide isolation down to a not-very-low frequency (around 10Hz), and coupling below that frequency. And that frequency is not a single number, but rather the corner frequency of a 1st order (6dB/octave) low pass filter.

So bdp24 thinks that you can place something in a room without it touching anything. Nice trick lol.

mg