Do I really need Desoldering for replacing resistors/caps?

Thank you very much everyone for many good advice.
Wow, I guess I will have to put a hold on recap, seem like very difficult to me. I guess I can do some resistors with no problem. 
Do I search for "Audio repair" online for a good qualify LOCAL tech do to recap for me or should I use any other words. I don’t really want to ship it to somewhere else if I don’t have to and also I can ask him if I can watch him while he do the job and can learn from him.

Eddy, in my home town the local high end store also does car audio. Their installer is superb - Mercedes quality or higher (and I own Mercedes).

I suggest that you visit a few car audio stores, and when you find the best, go into the shop and meet the installer(s). If you find someone you like, ask him if he could recommend someone to help you rework your ARC. You may well get lucky.

i don't know the age of the unit you're talking about but if it's older than 5 years it'll have lead solder, and now (certainly here in the UK) lead solder is a rarity, the lead-free stuff doesn't play so well with leaded, so if you did decide to do it, and the unit is of an age where it's leaded solder, best to remove as much of it as possible ... you'll still have a surface covering and thats ok, but mixing a blob of one with a blob of another is not so good

just my 2pennyworth, and my first post here having lurked for some time but only recently signed up

cheers guys

Jim

Thank you terry9 and Jim.

I do it different. Avoid de-soldering if possible. I sacrifice the bad component. Cut it apart with diagonals until interior leads are accessible. Grab one lead with forceps. Apply just enough heat to extract the lead. Do the other leads the same way - individually. Don't rock it out. Put a probe at the solder filled hole. Apply heat until the probe slides in (sorry). Allow the solder to set before removing probe. Insert new leads. Apply heat and add a little fresh solder until it all flows; and, Bob’s your uncle.