Furman Elite 15 PFi - how to tell if everything is working

Hello all.  I just purchaced a used Furman power conditioner. I already have a lesser set of Furmans working in my system. My sound is extremely quiet, rich and spacious already, so I'm not expecting any big improvement in the sound.  The reason I'm buying the Elite 15 PFi is because I have a lot of equipment on my 15 amp services (no way I'll ever re-wire to 20 amp).
While I don't think I'm having problems (never tripped one of the breakers), just the draw from my Magnepan 1.7i speakers on my Bryston 4bst amps can be significant at peak volumes.  I generally like my peak volumes to be in the mid to upper 80 db range. I have had a few instances where - at peak volumes or a times of load vocal chorus' only - the music might sound slightly harsh.
What interests me about the Elite 15 PFi is the extra headroom they can supply to help with instantaneous peak power requirements. I have read enough people say they hear no difference between their amp being plugged into the wall or into the Elite 15 PFi, so I figured I would give the Furman a try.
My question: If I A/B test the sound - Amp plugged into wall vs. Amp plugged into Furman, and I hear a detrimental difference in the sound, I guess I'll know the Furman is working.  But, I have read a few posts saying the Furman power factor componant of their Furman wasn't working.  What if I hear no difference between wall and Furman?  How do I know if the Furman is working? 
Any way to easily tell?

... I have read a few posts saying the Furman power factor componant of their Furman wasn't working.  What if I hear no difference between wall and Furman?  How do I know if the Furman is working?
It's unusual for power factor to be a problem with residential AC service, although it can happen. To verify that the Furman is working properly, you could measure PF at the receptacle and at the Furman output.
I don’t think Furman is actually using the term "power factor" in any kind of the usual industrial sense of power factor correction. Their naming refers more to power headroom or extra power draw capacity, so a normal check of the actual power factor of my house is not going to be an applicable test. Not a lot of industry on my electric distribution line or big motors in my home either.
I’m hoping someone familiar with these models, could offer some sort of a "do-this-and-then-look-for-this" type of a little test.


I also want to point out that just because something is working doesn't mean it has a benefit for you right now.

Like the fabulous surge protection. You really won't benefit from it until you have a surge.

The Furman SMP and LiFT are also great at removing noise, but if you have no noise ... then you probably will never heat it. :)

It all depends on your existing AC quality and the particular power supplies you use.

Me, for technical and audible reasons I'm a big fan of Furman.

Eric  Yes. Thanks.

 Here is another discription, from the Elite 15 PFi manual...

"When Power Factor Technology is employed with even the most sophisticated circuit breakers, it e ectively adds to the perceived current load. Though the Elite-15 PF i was designed for steady 15 Amp operation, and peak current demands many times that, the maximum total continuous current draw may be limited to a range between 1400 - 1750 Watts per Elite-15 PF i employed.
The RMS current available before the circuit breaker trips varies due to what is referred to as a vector load. Simply put, the type of power supplies or electronic circuits connected to the Elite-15 PF i will have an e ect on its circuit breakers perceived current load, and therefore, when it will trip. Though the bene ts of Power Factor Technology far outweigh the small reduction in continuous current draw, this must be accounted for when constructing a large system with high current demands.
The total continuous current draw of most electronic components is typically listed in Watts by their AC input cord or AC connector. Watt ratings are simply added to determine the total system RMS current draw. It should also be noted that the Elite-15 PF i’s Power Factor Technology has no actual e ect on the power drawn from your utilities’ power meter. The Elite-15 PF i draws a mere 8.5 Watts independent of other components, so it may be left on at all times."

Maybe this feature never breaks down and I shouldn't be concerned.  All I know is I have no idea how to tell if this feature is working.

Toolbox149, I have Elite 20PFI.  Any filtering choke in series will produce voltage drops, very big with most of linear power supplies, that draw the current from the mains in narrow pulses of very high amplitude.  Furman in addition to big choke in series added big capacitor, that stores energy to provide enough current for these current pulses.  On the wall side it presents itself as resistive constant load.   

The only difference I found is perhaps more "even" bass and cleaner TV picture.  I also bought used.  Furman Elite has non-sacrificial over/under voltage protection.  I've noticed few times it switched off when room lights got momentarily brighter and once when they got dimmer.  It reseted itself afterwards.   In addition to Furman I added whole house surge protector by replacing 2x20A double breaker with surge protected breaker (Siemens).