Go Active Crossover or Upgrade existing XOs?



It was recently suggested to me that rather than doing a crossover upgrade 

I look into an active crossover for my Tannoy FSMs. Anyone experienced enough 

to guide me? What advantages does active provide?


gadios
To the OP, it's a complicated question with no single, clear answer as you can tell from the replies. 

I happen to prefer digital active (since I like the experimenting) provided you can fall back on some kind of power treatment to ward off any digititus. But, that's just me. Others might greatly prefer good passives or good analog actives.

But, I agree it does depend on your goal. If all you want is to replicate the stock parameters, but improve the sq, then upgrading with better passive components may be all you need. 

But, if going active, the main catch is how intimate are you with how the original crossover was designed. If it can be entirely duplicated with whatever level of sophistication of your active crossover has, then you should be ok. And at that point, if you're looking to tweak the original design somewhat, you should be able to. 

One more problem, though. Passive crossover components often have a tendency to 'obscure' things a bit sq-wise and traditionally this has been looked upon in the manufacturing community as an opportunity to 'hide' (sweep under the rug) some minor details of driver mismatching...things that might become audible to you if you undo the maker's work. If it should come down to the fact that the drivers are less than well matched (and this is perhaps more common than you might think), then this might be something of an audible problem whether you are improving things actively OR passively). But, every design is different...and it may be an unknown as to whether or not that might apply or whether it might not be objectionable to you, if it does. That will have to prove to be a judgement call that you'll have to make and the only way for you to make it might be after the fact.

But, there's no real way to know (unless you know of someone who has your speakers and who's been there and done that) until you take that plunge yourself. It's not that I'm telling you that it's all a bad idea, I just mean that you should be willing to accept some risk if you're going to roll the dice on it. But who knows, it could turn out very well, better even than you might have thought, actually...especially if you're that persistent. 

But, likely you'll have to hear those results firsthand and that means that I can't make a recommendation for you one way or the other. I can only outlay, as above, what you might run into, if you choose either.
@ivan_nosnibor  , well put. *S*  And, both a warning and a challenge.

But, since most of what I've been doing lately is experimental....and nothing is 'pedigree' that I own...

Nothing ventured....;)
 ...and really nothing to lose. *G*

@andy2 , ...'muchacho' , gringo...
I have a hybrid system. Active crossover between lows and mids and passive between mids and highs.

Adding an active crossover to the system was the single biggest improvement to SQ I ever made. 

They can take quite a bit of time to dial in if you have never used one.

I find that they can be a great tool for compensating easily with variations between different recordings where one is too bright and another too dark. Mine is located right next to my listening position so I can easily make adjustments.
I have had bi-amped Maggie 1.6's with an active Bryston 10B crossover (analog) for 10 or so years. In my modest system the difference was quite astounding. As someone has pointed out, cleaner, more dynamic, and musical vs. passive crossovers. 

A caveat though. As richopp pointed out, Maggie crossovers were designed to be bi-amped if so desired and gutting the passives and rewiring was pretty straight forward. I did add new binding posts and plates when doing the conversion but could have used the stock pieces. Maggies are also known for not having the highest quality components in their passive crossovers (see the countless threads on the Planar Asylum of crossover component upgrades). Also, the Bryston 10B has settings that mimic the stock crossover frequencies and slopes, although I ended up preferring different settings.

Point is - it made a tremendous difference in my setup. Well worth the money (extra 2 channel amp and interconnects) and effort.  Not as intimidating to do as you might expect (geez, even I was able to do the conversion).

As to passive crossover component upgrades or digital vs. analog active I have no experience and can't comment.

The Elliot Sound Products white paper posted earlier on active vs. passive is excellent. Good luck with your quest.

Jim S.
Talking about "DSP" engineering an cost ... as a saying goes "A good engineer can do for a penny for what a mediocre engineer can for a dollar."  But I don't do cliche.  Nobody has ever said that an "evil engineer will take the dollar and maybe even your soul".