Has anyone added a small subwoofer to 2 channel and been thrilled with the result?


The subwoofer can of worms.
I’d like to add some bass to my otherwise fine 2 speaker setup and have limited space so perhaps a single 10in?
After a few weeks of research the only conclusion I can come up with is - everyone agrees they have to be setup properly. Every brand and technology has their own following and most recommend using 2 (which I don’t want due to space concerns). My room is 12 x 13 ft with box raised ceiling.
After much research, these are the subwoofers I’m trying to pick from, for various reasons:
Rythmik FM8  - lots of hifi fans
JL audio e110 - fantastic support
REL T/9i - sort of a gold standard
KEF R400b - interesting technology, makes me grin. 

I've never heard any of these.
System:
Hegel H160
SF Concerto speakers on stands.
Ben
casteeb
I had a Janis sub woofer with a pair Thiel's  20+ years ago. Now, I am starting a small system with a Peachtree Nova amp and Definitive Technology SM 45's. The speakers sound nice but I do miss the low end. What about the new ELac wireless sub's?  Anybody test drive any of those? I like the flexibility of moving it around the room without the wires.
Thought I would mention my setup, consisting of Moon 600i integrated, Focal L&R Utopia Be loudspeakers, (45Hz-40kHz) and one JL audio e110 subwoofer. Room is about 15x21 and 7.5 ft ceiling.


The Focal speakers are ported with two ports on each one, I have spent much time experimenting with plugging ports. One plugged, vs two plugged, etc. In the end I decided they sound best with both ports open. Also after lots of experimenting I have found using the low pass crossover set (according to the dial) just under 35Hz provides the most accurate sound. 

The difference between the listed low frequency response of 45Hz by Focal and using <35Hz crossover setting on the e110 seems like would leave a hole in the sound field, but I have found if I set the e110 closer to the 45Hz of the Focals it only exaggerates the bass frequencies in the maybe 40Hz -60, 80+ Hz range? 

I would also suggest look into the Soundoctor setup advice and CD at www.soundoctor.com, can be helpful. It has been a long road but my system is sounding great in all respects! 

Gary


I added a single JL Audio e110 to support my Sonus Faber Olympica III's in a fairly large room

it is the first of 6 or 7 subs I've owned over a 25 year span that I've kept, every other sub lasted a few weeks and ended up in the sub boneyard

I've toyed with the idea of adding a second e110 but really don't feel the need to; this one does exactly what I wanted it to do: give me the last bit of low end definition that got lost in my room - plus I don't listen often at high levels so the single sub does a wonderful job of making the system a truly full range affair -- it disappears in the room, never localizes bass response, is highly defined and pitch correct, it blends absolutely seamlessly with my mains

Randy at JL is a fabulous resource, very knowledgeable and helpful; there's no doubt in my mind that his help was instrumental in maximizing the sub's performance in my system

the biggest challenge for me was believing that inserting a $1500 sub between my $8k pre amp and $10k amp and using the sub's crossover was the best application; it took a real leap of faith to agree to that, but it is absolutely the best method of application

I have. Martin Logan CLX with Descent i . I like to use a second preamp output to drive the subwoofer. This has the advantage of a cleaner signal for both woofer and main speakers, but the disadvantage of requiring a level adjustment if the main amplifier is changed.

A lot of folks talk about fast/slow woofers with stats.  They're talking out their butts and are reflecting their frustrations due to basic incompetence at setup of a sub-woofer. Trying to adjust a sub-woofer based on listening to recordings will be an exercise in frustration. 

These frustrations are similar to those expressed for multi-channel playback. In that case, lots of folks just can't handle proper phase and level setting of the multiple speakers. Just my arrogant opinion. ;)

The trick, in the absence of good automation, is to use a calibrated mic with a decent RTA and suitable broad-band noise. I use True RTA on my PC with a calibrated mic. You must be sure to load the mic calibration data which allows the RTA software to compensate for the mic's errors in response. This allows for rapid, non-guessing, setup of level and phase for good blending with the main speakers.  Once set, you can feel free to make slight level adjustments to taste.
I'm running B&W 802 D3's with 2 B&W ASW 700 subwoofers integrated with a JL Audio CR-1 crossover.
For years I could never get solid bass in my room,  because it's a carpet over concrete floor basement room and I have a huge suck out where my listing position is set up ( the sitting position is limited due to various factors in the room).

Since adding the subwoofers (basically positioned across from each other on each side of the room ) and spending quite a bit of time integrating them with the crossover, it's been the best investment I've ever made and has raised my system to a whole new level.

 For a long time I was very reluctant to add Subs as it was not seen as the "purist" thing to do,  but after reading an article in Stereophile where they reviewed the cr1 integrated with I believe REL speakers, and also listening to Paul from PS Audio who's a big proponent of using subwoofers even with full range speakers, I got over my bias thinking subwoofers are only for home theater and heavy metal stereo listeners.  

One thing I did do recently, is run the main speakers down to 30 Hz but have the subs crossed over around 65hz. By doing this, it's really opened up the sound stage. You would think having the subs crossover ay above where the main speakers cut-out would cause too much bass at those points, but it doesn't do that.

To the point about how much bass you want, I have the bass at a level where it's natural but can still be felt. The goal for me  is not to create a  heavy metal system where the bass is kicking you in the head. I can certainly crank up the bass to do that but that sort of defeats the purpose in a true audiophile system IMO.