High Fidelity Sound Speaker

Yes Barton fan, i think

I started the longest thread here, Speaker Shootout at the OK corral,,looking over my comments I really  was in the dark about speakers, asking alot of stupid Q's. 

The answers /info on FR at that time 2003, was **FR are high efficient and requirea   SET amp**,,I knew I did not wanta  SET, so that was that.

Besides FR at that time  had some issues, which DaviDlouis has over come.

btw one cabinet has front panel on the inside of the side walls, the other on the OUTside of front panel,,not sure how that happened,,,oh, well..

Ignorance is bliss.

My tech just emailed me, says forget Kronzilla look at Wavac's 833 model amps, 3 models.

So If I will never have the cash for  either amplifier...whats the solution to at least trying to approacha  Kronzilla/Wavac sound field emotive experience...
A:

Speakers.

DIYers said they have already tried dual FR in one cabinet,,did not and will not work.

My Ebay seller asks ~~Why?__ says no one in china has  concocted such a  design. He has no idea what I am up to.

My tech won't give one word opinion. He is staying clear,, as he was the one to suggest I buy a new pair of Millennium's due to one being 1/2 ohm off from a new ,,so i bought new and heard zero difference, out $700+..so He won't give any more ideas/opinions.

I am on my own  with this project.

I've already made some experiments with dual FR,,and 2 drivers did not  pair up well with the VX8, one did, the DLW4, 

So now I am seeing if I can push the limits to going with a  W6.

IF a  success, my speaker sysytem will approacha  Kronzilla/Wavac  type fidelity sound field experience.

When you havea   problem, don't get discouraged, There is always some solution. No cash for $100,000 amplifiers, 

Got it

So what  might be a  alternative?

Speakers.

And thats exactly what I am up to.

VX6 on the way via DHL.

If it does not work out, you will not see a  YT vid.

I will only post a  update if a  success.

Results will be either world class sound field, or a  muddy mess. 

My chips are on 1st outcome.

If so, speaker 2nd to none. 

and some near 20 yrs later if I inquired about advantages/disadvantages of each design

stats/esl

horn

slow eff

FR'

I'd get a  whole bunch (well back then we had 10x's as many members posyting comments,,,,I'd get a  bunch of comments with no specific answers to help figure out what speaker design is best for me.

I'd get a  bunch of vague generalizations. 

Nothing of real  substance.

The answer was,

FR + low eff assist.

This is the set up I've been looking for.

WEll don't  need your help now, 

I figured it out all on my own.

I am no perfectionist,, I do not have a cabinet studio not cutting table.. Circular saw just does not cut straight,,anyway its done, and the gaps are sort of like exhaust ports for energy to flow out., Filter through the gaps. The VX8 could be placed ina cardboard box and it would sound good.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

So the cabinets are a different sizes and they have air leaks. OK then.

I have an idea. Toss the box. Get heavier speaker wire and just "Hang Um High", do a "Clint" on um, AND let er rip..

Speakers 101. The single most important thing to do, is MIRROR the other speaker..

If you’re A/Bing speaker changes, then ONE at a time and listen.. I always start on the left.

I listen to cables the same way. That is the best way to tell a difference. Plug in the new cable, speaker or even tubes, just the left (or right). I turn the units on and let them warm up. I listen 30 seconds at the most. I let them play for 30-60 minutes. THEN I listen at low/med/higher volumes for no more than 10 minutes. I check at 24 hours and 100 or so..

It’s the same every time for me because I don’t change thing to much.

Whatever I’m testing has to sound good but a little hot (Highs), then at 8 hours or so cables and speakers loose a little volume but COOL off (highs and mids). At 24 hours they sound correct if bass is involved.. Everything after that is very subtle to 100 hours or so. If silver or silver clad is involved including caps, inductors, resistors, or anything else, it can keep changing to 500 hours.

Teflon Caps. FOREVER!! I like them the best, I HATE breaking them in..

Copper, plug in, route, support and listen.. 50 hours.. Including Voice Coils in NEW drivers..

Speaker boxes settling and of course checking for leaks.. That’s Speaker 102 or is that 201? A halfa$$ built box dosen’t leak. Every now and then a driver to baffle leaks. I use a stethoscope with and without an amplifier bulb and an open tube bell collector.

Best single cabinet tool made for testing, your ears and an amplifier/collector. Hearing memory is Speakers 103 or 301... I can't remember.. :-)

Regards

Yeah the cabinets are off, but consider its basically off by 1 inch H and 1 inch in width,,,actually the 30 inch H has side walls on the OUTSIDE of front face,, the 29 inch H has the walls,,,,on the inside,,,ohh wait,, thats makes for less Q  not more,,,ok so the 29 incher with side walls inside of face,, is maybe 1 liter-2 liter vol less than the 30 inch H cabinet..

Does anyone here really believe,,btw neither port are measured, its all about the same size posrts,,, does anyone here really believe 1 cab with 50 liters and the other 48 liters is going to notea  dif in sound to the avg listener???

Come on, evena spec-ograph can't pick up dif wave forms 1 vs the other.

I'm not perfectionist thats for sure,

But what I do want perfect is the construct of the driver itsself.

Look my tech's magneplanar 3 pannel or 4 pannel each channel speakers will have a  more huge soundstage , as i told him. 

But he has to deal with that sweet spot thing,, which I can't not accept.

If my dual FR  project works out,, I may indeed have reivented the highest fidelity speaker system. 

No one else in the world has sucha  design on record. I've googled several times and come up with zero.

I may be the 1st.

And there are reasons why it may just work out.

Wilson's won;'t touch my midrange, neither Sonus faber.

Zu's dual drivers can not compete witha  dual FR.

Not when Davidlouis is in the cabinet.

I bet no more than 5 USA audiophiles own the DLVX8.

This is the reason no one has heard about this speaker. 

So as you know, I never rest in my never ending search of possibilities in FR techology

I decided to take a  closer look at Cube Neuphar  made in Poland, due to a  member here who lives near , has the Cube.

So what turned me away from cking Cube more closerly, earlier was the multiple cones and the price, out my budget..

Then just tonight I decided to make further investigations.

Glad I did.

Seems the older W8 model is pretty much what I am looking for. 1 whizzer and just at my limit $2k

Read this review

**as near perfect as perfection is going to GET..** which is what i have been mantra-ing these past months here on Audiogon.

WEll now we have a  independent review of what Im also have found to be  accurate.

I'd say Cube would be my 1st choice in higher end FR.

The **magnetic motor** looks something different and cool vs AER's standard magnet motor.

+ Cube offersa  10 unch,,which may get into trouble,,,,ahhh now I see why the multiple whizzers on the W10.

That explains THAT.

A 10 will offer bigger bass, but at a  sacrifice,,,so soloution? Add 2 more whizzers = problem solved.

Bass from a  10 inch cone + 3 whizzers for mids/highs.

Got it.

Not sure If I wanta   10, as my rm is too small, and the Jadis Defy7 has 12 Mundorf .47 SESGO caps, which offers lots of nice added punch to the bass.

8 inch suits me fine,,at the moment

xover type speakers that you have in YOUR system are ~~flawed~~

You don't know it, due to all sorts of factors which I won't go into to

FR has no such flaws that YOUR speakers have

Here read this accurate review on the Cube

**perfect as close to perfection as can be..** thats all i am trying to get across.

YOUR speakers are far away from this standard.

But you are unaware of these flaws.

Last comment, witha  Cube 10,,its possible you will not need  your Wilson, Sonus faber, Dali, Theil, Tektonas as **assist* for the 10.

Why
The 10 will offer nice rich bass and with extended highs.

With a Cube W8,  now you will have to re-tweak your xover in your Wilson, Dali, Sonus Faber at different points, as a  **assist* speaker which will pad up lows and highs on the Cube W8

Follow>

Yeah I know you just spent $10,000 on the Sonus Faber,, make that $30K..and $30k on  Wilson, Dali at $30k , which now are only workable as assist mode to support the Crown Jewel, the Cube W8.

Thats all the xover types are good for now, assist, these low sens types now serve as padding. Nothing more .

Unlike Stereophiles flawed reviews, I did not say liars, here in this review you can read non-snakeoil honest comments  about the values of a  higher end FR speaker

http://v2.stereotimes.com/post/cube-audio-nenuphar-loudspeakers-by-mike-girardi/