High Fidelity Sound Speaker

Ignorance is truly bliss sometimes, so I say...be happy!

I’ve been away from the speaker forum for a while.

Didn’t "mozartfan" post under a different name at one time?

Yes Barton fan, i think

I started the longest thread here, Speaker Shootout at the OK corral,,looking over my comments I really  was in the dark about speakers, asking alot of stupid Q's. 

The answers /info on FR at that time 2003, was **FR are high efficient and requirea   SET amp**,,I knew I did not wanta  SET, so that was that.

Besides FR at that time  had some issues, which DaviDlouis has over come.

btw one cabinet has front panel on the inside of the side walls, the other on the OUTside of front panel,,not sure how that happened,,,oh, well..

Ignorance is bliss.

My tech just emailed me, says forget Kronzilla look at Wavac's 833 model amps, 3 models.

So If I will never have the cash for  either amplifier...whats the solution to at least trying to approacha  Kronzilla/Wavac sound field emotive experience...
A:

Speakers.

DIYers said they have already tried dual FR in one cabinet,,did not and will not work.

My Ebay seller asks ~~Why?__ says no one in china has  concocted such a  design. He has no idea what I am up to.

My tech won't give one word opinion. He is staying clear,, as he was the one to suggest I buy a new pair of Millennium's due to one being 1/2 ohm off from a new ,,so i bought new and heard zero difference, out $700+..so He won't give any more ideas/opinions.

I am on my own  with this project.

I've already made some experiments with dual FR,,and 2 drivers did not  pair up well with the VX8, one did, the DLW4, 

So now I am seeing if I can push the limits to going with a  W6.

IF a  success, my speaker sysytem will approacha  Kronzilla/Wavac  type fidelity sound field experience.

When you havea   problem, don't get discouraged, There is always some solution. No cash for $100,000 amplifiers, 

Got it

So what  might be a  alternative?

Speakers.

And thats exactly what I am up to.

VX6 on the way via DHL.

If it does not work out, you will not see a  YT vid.

I will only post a  update if a  success.

Results will be either world class sound field, or a  muddy mess. 

My chips are on 1st outcome.

If so, speaker 2nd to none. 

and some near 20 yrs later if I inquired about advantages/disadvantages of each design

stats/esl

horn

slow eff

FR'

I'd get a  whole bunch (well back then we had 10x's as many members posyting comments,,,,I'd get a  bunch of comments with no specific answers to help figure out what speaker design is best for me.

I'd get a  bunch of vague generalizations. 

Nothing of real  substance.

The answer was,

FR + low eff assist.

This is the set up I've been looking for.

WEll don't  need your help now, 

I figured it out all on my own.

I am no perfectionist,, I do not have a cabinet studio not cutting table.. Circular saw just does not cut straight,,anyway its done, and the gaps are sort of like exhaust ports for energy to flow out., Filter through the gaps. The VX8 could be placed ina cardboard box and it would sound good.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

So the cabinets are a different sizes and they have air leaks. OK then.

I have an idea. Toss the box. Get heavier speaker wire and just "Hang Um High", do a "Clint" on um, AND let er rip..

Speakers 101. The single most important thing to do, is MIRROR the other speaker..

If you’re A/Bing speaker changes, then ONE at a time and listen.. I always start on the left.

I listen to cables the same way. That is the best way to tell a difference. Plug in the new cable, speaker or even tubes, just the left (or right). I turn the units on and let them warm up. I listen 30 seconds at the most. I let them play for 30-60 minutes. THEN I listen at low/med/higher volumes for no more than 10 minutes. I check at 24 hours and 100 or so..

It’s the same every time for me because I don’t change thing to much.

Whatever I’m testing has to sound good but a little hot (Highs), then at 8 hours or so cables and speakers loose a little volume but COOL off (highs and mids). At 24 hours they sound correct if bass is involved.. Everything after that is very subtle to 100 hours or so. If silver or silver clad is involved including caps, inductors, resistors, or anything else, it can keep changing to 500 hours.

Teflon Caps. FOREVER!! I like them the best, I HATE breaking them in..

Copper, plug in, route, support and listen.. 50 hours.. Including Voice Coils in NEW drivers..

Speaker boxes settling and of course checking for leaks.. That’s Speaker 102 or is that 201? A halfa$$ built box dosen’t leak. Every now and then a driver to baffle leaks. I use a stethoscope with and without an amplifier bulb and an open tube bell collector.

Best single cabinet tool made for testing, your ears and an amplifier/collector. Hearing memory is Speakers 103 or 301... I can't remember.. :-)

Regards