how to connect power for amps
I have a power outlet dilemma. I have a two port outlet where I locate my system today (and yes that's all the outlets I have available). I use one port for DAC and one port for a stereo channel amp. I'm contemplating upgrading to a DAC+pre-amp+mononblock which obviously will require four outlets.
I'm wondering how you all might deal with such situation. I tried using cheap power strips that give really poor sound quality. If I buy an expensive $200 power strip, would that solve my problem?
Thanks in advance.
I’m contemplating upgrading to a DAC+pre-amp+mononblock which obviously will require four outlets.First question; is your AC line 15 amps and is it shared by other wall receptacles in your house or apt? Second; how powerful are the monoblocks? If there is too much current draw, you will trip the circuit breaker. If you are able to run all your components on one circuit, then a high quality power strip or conditioner would be a solution. |
All of your components should have a label on the rear panel indicating maximum current draw in Amps. A long as the total current draw from all the components that are plugged into that ’duplex’ outlet is less than 15/20 Amps you can safely use a power strip or a multi-adapter like the one shown in the link by yogiboy. Unless your components are being ’starved’ of adequate voltage I don’t see how the "SOUND" will suffer. How to identify wall outlet capacity: http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=119564&stc=1&d=1456094434 |
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It actually will. I have many run of the mill $20 power strips at home and just having a cheap power strip between my amp and outlet causes sound quality degradation... sigh... The effect is like having a cheap power cable connected at the end of my expensive PS Audio power cable, it undoes everything. |
Make your own with some P&S or Hubble 8300 hospital grade and a plastic gang box. Use Albert Porter’s if you want to spend a little more. http://www.porterhouseaudio.com/Porter-ports.htm |
The problem with the outlet extenders that yogiboy has suggested is that they have very thin metal conductors. I have already looked into these. They are probably equivalent to 18awg power cords, and nowhere near enough to support good current for your electronic equipment. If you are going on the cheap, you can find a heavy duty splitter short extension cord at your local Home Depot or equivalent hardware store. These have 12 awg stranded copper conductors. Here's an example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-2-ft-12-3-Tri-Tap-Outdoor-Extension-Cord-657-12302RL6AP/302877755 You could spend money on an expensive power strip, but keep in mind it's always going to be a stranded copper cord. The Emotiva CMX-6 is a good one, but it has a 14awg power cord (not bad, but not the greatest either). Good in a pinch if you want just a little bit of line filter built in. noromance has the best solution - and that is to build your own. Though, it's actually probably best to expand your 2-port outlet to a dual outlet gang box (in the wall). Use 12awg or 10awg solid-core to chain the two outlets together. And yes, upgraded outlets to Porter Port or something else is always good! |
Those cheap plastic strips for computers definitely affect sonics. Wiremold makes a very transparent power strip with no filters. There are many configurations, the best being aluminum with 6 ft. cord. https://www.mscdirect.com/industrialtools/wiremold-power-strip.html |
“All of your components should have a label on the rear panel indicating maximum current draw in Amps...” Another way to look at this is determine the amount of watts each component uses at idle as well as full power and use that to base your judgment. For example, a 15 amp circuit can handle an absolute maximum of 1800 watts (15ampsx120volts) and the normal operating condition should be less than 80% of that maximum. It’s much more common to see the watts usage in the equipment specs since the maximum ampere draw spec is somewhat meaningless and depends on the load. If your amps run in Class A, you should account for their maximum wattage (not watts per channel) since they’ll draw maximum current even when sitting idle. One comment: You may want to consider placing your monoblocks close(er) to your speakers which might make this topic somewhat moot. P.S. Your DAC and your preamp, if SS, will need little power/watts. |
I use a Hammond Hospital Grade Power Strip and it works very well and is very affordable. http://www.hammondmfg.com/1584h.htm |
The 14 gauge AWG power cord is designed to handle the rated 15 amps for which the unit was designed. I would suggest you calculate what your load requirements are per Kalali's recomendation and go from there. If you research a few threads on Audiogon you will see that the Hammond power strip is well regarded and is a high quality designed and constructed power strip for the money. Chuck |
In US, most if not all the backbone wiring in single family homes is 12awg and in many cases the wire from the panel is shared across multiple outlets. Electrically speaking, putting a short 10awg "pigtail" at the end of a very long 12awg wire is somewhat pointless and for most applications a good quality copper 14awg wire is more than adequate. Now if you are trying to plug an arc welder into your/same wall plug, then that's whole different story... |