Most automatic turntable are now very old and are in need of lubrication and servicing. Most of the gears used in auto table are mode from plastic which have become hard and brittle which can result is loss of gear teeth.
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I’m sure that there is a better term for this but my Googling didn’t reveal one. Analog is a secondary source for me, generally confined to albums that never made it to digital. So I got one of these 45 year old favorites from eBay and it has a common issue that I’ve had with other turntables besides my current one in the past.
When I depress the cueing for the tonearm it skips the first few measures . I have to manually and slowly lower the tonearm and even then it still does this about half the time. This only happens with certain LPs. Is it record warping?
I had my dealer check the cartridge alignment a few weeks ago.
Again I’ve tried Googling this and I just haven’t been able to come up with much except improper cartridge alignment and record warping.
Just wondering what people in this Forum, who are an amazing collection of knowledge, think
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- 25 posts total
Not enough anti-skate, it is pulling in as soon as it hits the surface, it takes a few grooves just to keep it in a groove, and it is pulling in too much the entire play, of EVERY LP, wearing both the stylus and the grooves. are you able to adjust anti-skate on that unit? You cannot rely on the dials/indicators being accurate, you can set it visually. Get one of these protractor discs with ’other side blank’. hudson hifi protractor, other side blank after you double-check all your alignments on the protractor side, set anti-skate to zero, set your tracking weight now, on the disc’s blank side, manually spin the platter, lower the arm, see it pull in even though no grooves, that is the natural force any and all pivoted arms exhibit. adjust the anti-skate slowly while seeing the results, check in a little from the outer edge, check out a little bit from the inner edge, make the best compromise. |
Most often, skipping inward has to do with the point a which the arm is set down and the speed at which the arm is set down. Records have a raised bead around the edge of the record to strengthen the record at its most exposed part, and in the old days, to keep the playing surface from contacting another record when stacked for automatic play. When the needle is set down on top of that raised bead, it falls down that little hill and can gain enough momentum to slide past the first grooves. If you have the ability to adjust the point of set down, choose a point farther into the record and away from the edge. It seems counter intuitive to set a needle down further into the record when it is skipping the first grooves, but this works. It also helps to have a slow descent of the arm to also reduce the momentum sliding down the edge bead. If you cannot adjust the set down point, you can keep the arm cued up, and before cuing down, you can nudge the arm a little bit inward to miss the bead. While excessive anti-skating can exacerbate the problem, it is not the primary cause. If it were the cause the needle would continue to slide in well past the first few grooves because skating force is not much different between the first contact point and where it stops sliding inward. |
- 25 posts total