I am confused about 15A and 20A current.

Electrical Expert:

(1) How do I get 20A out of the main power line in my house?

(2) Is it typically setup 15A ?

(3) Is there a conversion unit (15-20) available?

The reason that I ask is that as soon as I turn on the Rotel RB-1090 (rated 380W) the circuit breaker breaks.

Could the tripping maybe be from a worn out circuit breaker ?

I had a circuit breaker that seemed to trip too easily so I replaced it with a new one of the same vaule. The problem went away.
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Enough has been written about the reasons why one should not change a 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp so I'll just add my 2 cents about a comment on 12-3 for the 20 amp circut. 12-2 is all that's needed. 12-2 has a black and white conductors plus a bare wire for ground. 12-3 has an additional red conductor. Small point sure, just don't want someone to look at their wire and think it's wrong.
Sorry, I have been spending time work on the yard lately because our house afftected by Isabel. Too many downed tree.

Thanks all for your suggestions. I tried every thing, and the amp still tripping the breaker every time I turn it on.

I check out the spec on Rotel web site, and yes, it consumes 17 Amp input; therefore, it requires 20AMP outlet in order to get the amp function.

Again, thanks all.

Despite the fact that this is an 80+ lb beast with casters on the back (!), the back panel drawing and the owners manual state the power consumption as 800W (6.9A@115VAC). Points off for the Rotel WebSite, since their spec sheet says 1200W. Two out of three, I vote for 800W...

There are way too many unknowns in the post to be able to comment correctly. If the amp comes with a 20A IEC (highly doubtful), and a 20A cord for the US market, you wouldn't be able to plug it into a 15A receptacle, due to NEMA plug/ receptacle configurations. There isn't any information on the age of the house, and what edition of the NEC it was built to, if it was at all.

The owner's manual has the following note:
"The RB-1090 has a built-in surge attentuator to prevent opening the electrical circuit breaker or fuse at turn on." It sure smells like an amp problem, but I'd have the whole panelboard looked at first. As in, replace the whole thing, or at least have all circuit breakers replaced. By a *real electrician, of course...