My two lines run to the same place. Maybe separating them has sonic value, it could make sense logically but, maybe not technically. Engineers chime in. I don't really buy into significant differences in high end outlets. I use the same Furutech for both of mine, have swapped amp. TT, tuner, phono and digital plugs with noticing any difference. I would get 2 Porter outlets, good value/cost and enjoy.
Installing Dedicated Lines.... Need advise
Ok I plan to run two dedicated lines of Romex 10/2 wire about 60' each. One will be for my Receiver and Rotel sub amp. And the other for all my digital.
Question one: Should I say.. put the analog plug to one side of my sound stage, and the digital to the other side, that way the amp wires will be seprated by like 6' or so. Or is it ok to run them all to the same area?
Question two: I plan to use a Maestro socket for the amps, is it ok to go with a simpler Porterhouse for the digital?
And last, if money is an issue, would you run say Home Depot Romex 10/2 to the digital, and use VH Audio 10 on the amps?
Question one: Should I say.. put the analog plug to one side of my sound stage, and the digital to the other side, that way the amp wires will be seprated by like 6' or so. Or is it ok to run them all to the same area?
Question two: I plan to use a Maestro socket for the amps, is it ok to go with a simpler Porterhouse for the digital?
And last, if money is an issue, would you run say Home Depot Romex 10/2 to the digital, and use VH Audio 10 on the amps?
16 responses Add your response
For trivial cost and virtually no effort, consider Machina Dynamica "Flying Saucers for unused AC outlets." Also, there is a companion version for window glass in the listening room (and, beyond). These items outdid the benefits of power conditioners in my listening rooms, and allowed to be heard a quiet, clear and detailed sound similar to what can be heard in systems off the grid on battery power. There is no impairment of dynamics since nothing is within the AC power path. Appreciation of micro and macro dynamics is actually enhanced. Then go right ahead with the planned dedicated line project and listen for any further improvement. |
In theory, separation of any cable is better than no separation, but whether or not it makes a big difference??? I have noticed a big difference in outlets. I started with Hubble hospital grade, then PS Audio Power Ports, which made a noticeable difference for my amp, but not as much for my source components. Recently I have installed a Watt Gate Gold (amp) and a Silver (sources) with definitely better sound than the Hubble, or PS Audio. Probably depends a lot on your particular system and incoming power as to how much improvement you would gain, but I am now a believer in outlet and power cords. They do make a difference. |
Several years ago I did a lot of wire (10/2) and outlet comparison testings (check out my older reviews and comments). I concluded the following to answer your questions: 1) It's a personal matter of diminishing marginal returns. 2) I did not notice a difference in sound when my outlets were located close to each other or separated by six or eight feet or so, however there is nothing wrong with the idea of separation of outlets. 3) I did notice a difference in sound dynamics when using different high-end outlets and it's okay to mix and match different outlets and AC wire to create the desired sound you want to achieve. Feel free to email me if you have specific questions. |
Make sure you hire a qualified electrician who is also trained in stereo home installations. We can thank the popularity of home theater custom installation for electrical installation designed to reduce ground loops, hums, isolation etc. My electrician suggested a separate pony panel from my main system. He also put in a large surge suppression to protect my equipment that would not impact sound quality. He also recommended separate lines for analogue and digital. All lines were designed for 20amp service. Any electrician can wire a system for audio, but it takes good electrician to wire a system for both power and performance. |
I suggest skipping the expensive romex and using a Topaz isolation transformer, preferably one that is at least 1000 watts or higher. These are common on Ebay for $250-$300. I got great results by doing the following: 1. If the Topaz isolation transformer is 220V in/out capable, run a heavy gauge wire, 10-2 or 8-2 from the main panel to the Topaz and use the same gauge from the Topaz to a small subpanel...8 circuits or less. From the subpanel, run your separate dedicated standard 12-2 romex runs for each circuit. 2. If the Topaz is 110V out only, skip the subpanel and run the romex for the circuits directly from the Topaz Doing the above reduced noise/hash in the mids to the point that my system went from sounding like very good detailed revealing hifi to producing a musical experience that was just enveloping. Your mileage may vary. |
For the outlets see this review thread: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?ymisc&1370875160&&&/Porter-Ports-or-Cabledyne-Cryo-Hubbell-5 |
Foster_9, I am in the process of just about to complete mine. I am running a dedicated line, 10 gauge for amplification, and a 12 gauge for digital, line level components. The job is not easy, and I am doing it but fortunate to have a father as an electrician.. I will be replacing all my breakers with Square D, and likely doing the panel filter-surge protector as all will be apart. This is the unit at VH Audio. All reports I have from friends with it is that they feel it was their best investment. Just be warned, 10 gauge wire is a b--ch to work with. You almost need a 2 gang box to put one plug in. Be sure to use AC receptacles with the clamp down option, not the wrap around the screw version. Try twisting 10 gauge around a screw.....Best wishes, Jallen |
Ok thanks all. I have bought all my materials, and plan to run them today. I got Romex 10/2 wire, A MIT Power Z outlet for the TV and Cable Box, Two Maestro outlets, for the amps, CD player, and Bluray. And Last I ordered 5 Porterhouses, for other components, and places we use other electronics. Now I am in search of what Power cords to use. My budget system is this. Cambridge Audio 640R Reciever Rotel RB-9808BX amp to run un-powered VMPS sub Usher CD-100 CD Player Axiom Audio speakers 5.1 |
Now I am in search of what Power cords to use.Signal Cable would be a good and reasonably priced choice, IMO. Regarding your use of the multiple outlets, I would offer the thought that while using separate dedicated lines for digital, low level analog, and amplifier components can often be a good way to go, it will certainly not always be the best way to go. There are tradeoffs that are involved, such as an increased possibility of ground loop issues if separate AC runs are used for different components. Especially if the signal connections between those components are unbalanced. How those tradeoffs will net out is dependent on the internal grounding configuration and other aspects of the design of the particular components, and won't usually have much predictability. So I would encourage you to try different arrangements of what is plugged in where. Regards, -- Al |
Ok so the project is done. I did run two lines of 10/2 to my equipment. I used the Maestro outlets for the Receiver, sub amp, CD player, and BluRay. I used a MIT Z Duplex for the cable box and TV. I used Silflex Glass Toslinks, and Shunyata Venom 3 power wires. And last Canare 4s11 speaker wire. I upgraded my mains from Axiom M22's to Swan 5.2F's. All in All I have run everything for about 80 hours, and its Amazing. Better yet even the wife notices a difference. :-) |