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Is this how a Subwoofer Crossover is supposed to work?

I bought two Starke SW12 subwoofers that I installed.  So far I'm not particularly happy with them.  They are way too loud even with the volume set almost to off.  More importantly, I'm having trouble integrating them into my system and I'm wondering if that is because their crossover setting is really functioning as I understand a crossover should. Attached please find measurements from Room Equalization Wizard with SPL graphs of the two subs (no speakers) taken at my listening position with the crossover set at 50 Hz, 90 Hz, and 130 Hz. Ignore the peaks and dips which I assume are due to room nodes.  All of those settings appear to actually have the same crossover point of 50 Hz. All that changes is the slope of the rolloff in sound levels. This isn't how I thought a properly designed crossover was supposed to work.  I thought the frequency the levels would start to roll off would change, i.e. flat to 50 hz then a sharp drop, flat to 90 hz then a sharp drop, etc. etc..  But Starke says this is how a subwoofer crossover is supposed to work.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8x4cr32pagwg48i/Two%20Subs%20Different%20Crossover%20Points%20No%20Speaker...
Any experts on here with an opinion about this?  Is it possible to buy an inexpensive active crossover that I could use in place of what is built into these subs?
pinwa
fastfreight
827 posts
 
Sorry in advance for not answering the OP's question.

I just received my microphone and downloaded REW.  All this discussion is causing me to consider returning the mike.  In the meantime I repositioned my REL subs into the far left and right corners, allowing them to project the longest way possible, vs project right at me and a wall behind me. My room is open to the sides...think basement with center utility room.   I use the high level inputs and have the crossover and volume turned quite low.  Sounds great to me now with no EQ.  Still would love to measure it all but giving me a headache.

MySet Up:  one at a time.  Turn the xover and volume all the way down.  Turn up the volume till it just sounds good.  Now play with the phase (switch or dial) until loudest bass.  Then turn the xover up slowly by ear until it sounds best.  Try to keep it to where it just blends and you can not localize the sub.
Now do the second sub (I do it with and without the first playing).
Finally, listen to a lot of music and turn each subs volume down a smidge probably.  Works for me.  
Post removed 
erik_squires
16,245 posts
 
Hi OP,
Really nice work on the main’s. Is this in a relatively narrow room? I ask from looking at the peak around 370 Hz.  Consider bass traps in the corners behind the mains. GIK Soffit Traps are super nice, but also look at ATS Acoustics for even less expensive options.

If I was a reactionary jerk I’d say something about @audiokinesis post, but since he’s being a super nice guy and 100% based in science I can’t. :0)

Imo the close-miced curve of the Starke provides a lot of useful information.

Which is why I was suggesting a single sub as a starting point, though honestly I did not think to do close mic’d, but at least we can see that this sub is in fact performing a lot better than the original plot. :)  Now as we start adding complications like distance and 2 subs we'll better understand what is contributing to what.


Best,
E
imhififan's avatar
imhififan
2,210 posts
 
I need to do some further investigation about the pros and cons of a) leaving things as they are with the tube amp connected to the DAC’s RCA output and the Subs connected by XLR cables.
A pair of in-line xlr attenuator may help.
https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=In-Line%20XLR%20Attenuator&sitesearch=true
pinwa OP
290 posts
 
imhififan Interesting suggestion.  I wish they came in 5 or 7 db attenuation.  -10 starts taking the problem in the other direction LOL.
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