Line fault at the outlet -- do I need an electrician?


Yesterday, I got a Panamax, Max 1500 surge protector and line conditioner. (I got a very good deal on it, and am just trying it out.)

I plugged it into an outlet I've been using for a while and one of the red lights on the front lit up saying "line fault." (I'm not sure how this is different from a "ground fault." Maybe it's the same.) The Panamax does not do this with other outlets in the room. They seem ok.

So, I know this means that the outlet is improperly wired. My question is, might this be a simple thing to check and/or fix? Any suggestions most appreciated. It's the only outlet I can use to have my audio set up where I usually have it. Now is not an optimal time to call an electrician. If this is a big problem, I'll try out my gear somewhere else in the room, but if I can fix this without too much expertise, that would be ideal.
128x128hilde45
Al, (almarg),

I drew 3 vertical parallel lines on a piece of paper. One representing the Hot, one for the neutral and the other the equipment ground. At the top of the drawing I drew a horizontal line connecting both the neutral line and equipment line together. (Representing how the equipment grounding conductor is connected to the neutral at the electrical panel.)

At the bottom of the neutral and equipment ground lines I connected a digital meter.

Above the meter I drew the symbol of a resistor. I connected one lead to the hot and the other lead to the equipment ground. The resistor represents the leakage you spoke of in your post.

With the power switch of the equipment in the off position there will not be any hot and neutral current carrying load. Therefore there can not be VD. No VD, no difference of potential between the neutral conductor and the equipment grounding conductor. (At least originating within the branch circuit, and the piece of equipment connected to the branch circuit.)

Using your leakage theory I see what you mean when the mains Hot conductor is directly feeding the primary winding of the power transformer. I can see if there is a leakage to the chassis there would be current on the equipment grounding conductor. I am not sure you would measure a difference of potential from the equipment ground to the open switch open neutral though. Especially if the neutral conductor and equipment ground conductor are at the same ground potential.

Now if the leakage turns into a ground fault event and there is then considerable current causing a VD in the Hot / equipment ground (ground fault) circuit then indeed there would be a difference of potential from the equipment ground to the open switch open neutral.

I could be wrong though..... It wouldn’t be the first time.

Jim
.
@ cissado

cissado19 posts

03-23-2020
11:26am



2 tips. Be conscious of any switches outlets when testing, so there are no surprises.
When trying to find the first receptacle box, you can disconnect one pair of wires from the receptacle. THEN reapply power to find out if you’re in the beginning or middle of the circuit.

@ cissado
Reading your entire post from 03-23-2020 you have a background in electrical wiring/methods.


This was my response to your post.
jea483,307 posts  

03-23-2020  
 12:03pm  

@ cissado

Good post except in the case of where the duplex receptacle device may have been used as a junction for the make up of neutral and Hot conductors coming in and going out of the outlet box.

We don’t know what type of wiring materials/methods were used for the branch circuit wiring.

What year NEC was in effect at the time? What were the AHJ electrical code standards/requirements back then for where he lives? Was conduit required in basements back then? Is there a chance the branch circuit is part of a multi wire branch circuit? What happens if he breaks the feed neutral at an outlet and the other circuit of the multi wire branch circuit has a connected load on it?

The OP is not an electrician. An electrician would know what to look for. Like another Hot circuit conductor passing through the box he is about to open a neutral. An open neutral on a multi wire branch circuit has killed many a electricians.

This was your response to my above post.
cissado19 posts  

03-23-2020   
4:17pm

I’m not sure what this means exactly. Maybe because I wasn’t clear in my post. I usually am not clear... it’s my bad writing skills.
I just meant the first receptacle may have been fed from a light fixture. Also, that the wiring inside the light fixture box could be wrong.

It was this part of your post from 03-23-2020 that I was addressing.
When trying to find the first receptacle box, you can disconnect one pair of wires from the receptacle. THEN reapply power to find out if you’re in the beginning or middle of the circuit.


Maybe I was not clear. The point I was trying to make, because the OP admittedly called himself a novice and knows very little about electrical power systems and or electrical wiring and wiring methods, it may not be a good idea to open a branch circuit neutral even though the OP turned off the breaker that feeds the circuit he is working on.
We don’t know, and the OP definitely doesn’t know, if the branch circuit he is dealing with is a 2 wire with ground branch circuit ( Hot, Neutral, and ground), or possibly part of a 3 wire multiwire with ground branch circuit. Multiwire, therein 120/240V 3 wire multiwire branch circuit consisting of 2 hot conductors with a shared neutral conductor.
(Two 120V circuits that share a common neutral conductor.)


Best regards,
Jim

.
OP here. Sorry, had some family stuff to take care of.
Multimeter is an all sun EM830 multimeter.
I don't know if it has an autoscale.

I'm about re-test all outlets with the meter, after unplugging everything on that line (I hope. I need family to all wake up so I can see if the outlets in their rooms are part of the branch. This could be a little while.)

An image of the multimeter is here:

www dot jbryant dot eu/pages/DMM dot htm

I used the scale in the upper right that says V~ and has the numbers 600 and 200.
I set it on the 200 scale.
I re-tested and got a 3.7 reading.

I still need to unplug everything and get back to you.
OP again:
I'm pretty sure I unplugged everything on the chain of outlets.
I have not thrown the breaker yet.
All outlets on chain read as reversed:
*  the negative plug input reads as 120v, more or less
* the positive plug input reads as 3.4v, more or less
* Unplugging all things in the outlets made no difference to the 3.4v reading.
* On other chains in the house, things are not reversed. They read zero from the negative input plug.