LP Cleaning


Hi Guys
Need some advice on cleaning. 
I have a Clearaudio Smart Matrix cleaner. I am using Distilled Water with Spin Clean solution mixed roughly two caps (Large Bottle) to a litre. My TT is a Clearaudio Performence with a Dynavector Karat D17 and the Clearaudio Virtuso V2 both running through an Avid Pellar Phono. 
New records play fine no static or dust noise. Older records play with what seems like a lot of dust noise no matter how well I try and clean. The result is the same with both the Cartridges as well as switching to a combo of a Project TT, Project Phono and Ortofon Cartridge. 
I realise it must be my cleaning efforts. I have seen various videos on line and have tried to do exactly the same. I have also tried to clean with the Clearaudio solution that came with the machine. Can some one please advice how to get rid of the dust or better clean. Should I increase the amount of the Spinclean solution?
Thanks 
srafi
There are many threads already on this topic.

When you describe "new records play fine no static or dust noise. Older records play with what seems like a lot of dust noise no matter how well I try to clean." (This doesn't really make sense to me).

My memory says the Clearaudio has the velvet pads, right? These are static inducers. When using this type of machine, the goal is to perform as few rotations as possible. Does your TT have an acrylic platter? If so, these types of platters react with vinyl records to produce static.( These two pieces of equipment represent major dollars but are having this negative effect on your vinyl).

With no change to equipment, I'd buy a Mapleshade static gun as your current best, low cost option.

(I always steam my lps before my VPI and Audio Desk).
Thanks Astro for the input. 
I agree that it does seem the cleaner does introduce some static. I do have a Milty Zero stat but did not use it on records fresh from the cleaning session. Dont know why but the thought never crossed my mind. I will try and clean in as few turms as possible. 
Can I use an alternative brush/pad to spread the fluid and clean the records. DIY preferred as these things are not easily available in my country. Most of these items have been bought on travels abroad. Next trip wont be for another year. 

The use of any alternate brush before the vacuum process would be counter-productive.

The (fact?) that your platter is acrylic, is of no small consequence!

Another inexpensive method would be to buy a steamer. (Around $40.00). Use a good fluid, let air dry then compare! I'm all about trying out for your self. This would involve some time & effort, but seeing how you're into vinyl, this comes with the territory.

( My memory of the Zerostat is you have to use it according to specific directions)

My Mapleshade trounced my Zerostat and is less expensive to boot!

In a perfect world, one should be able to clean their records then immediately play them. This is another reason why I like my method. There is no substitute for steaming. None!




believe or not... are you wearing sneakers when you play records? This causes static, especially in the winter months. Good luck!
My take- based on your description is that your "cleaning" is actually leaving something on the record. Probably residue from the cleaning fluid, mixed with whatever you might have dredged up out of the grooves in the process of using brushes and fluids. 
It sounds like you are using two machines? A Clearaudio machine and the Spin Clean? Or is your reference to "Clearaudio Smart Matrix cleaner" just a fluid (and you are relying solely on the Spin Clean)? 
The key, in my estimation, is to do no harm. All things that contact the record- whether applicators, brushes, pads or lips on vacuum parts in contact with the record surface, including any RCM "platter"--have to be kept scrupulously clean, not only before and after a cleaning session, but during it. 
Vacuum machines-- if you indeed have one-- particularly those of the "wand" type, can introduce static in the process of "drying." Ditto hand drying a record with a cloth.
The concept, in general, is to apply a cleaning fluid, let it do its work, and then get it off the record. I will prepare a record using a bulb type "puffer" to blow surface dust off- those can be gotten cheaply- (I like the big Giottos Rocket Blaster but there are a variety of these things used for cleaning camera lenses); if the record has obvious surface stuff on it, I do a pre-clean using a very mild fluid without any sort of agitation or scrubbing- I don't want to grind any particles into the record surface. I'll vacuum that off, and if the record needs more intensive cleaning, will use an enzyme type fluid, e.g. AIVS No. 15, agitate and soak. 
One step that is absolutely necessary in my estimation is to do a rinse step using some grade of "pure" water after the fluid cleaning and vacuum step. (How pure depends on your degree of compulsiveness, pocket book and access to various types of water). This helps remove cleaning fluid residue- it is often a dried fluid residue with suspended contaminants in the mix that makes a "cleaned" record worse. 
Everybody has their favorite fluids, machines, methods and steps. I'm pretty agnostic- I've tried many, not all of them, and much comes down to basic good practices of the type I outlined. I have brought many old used records back from the dead- from unplayably noisy to a high state of play-just based on good practices. I do think some sort of vacuum machine is an essential part of the process. (I use both vacuum RCM and ultrasonic since I find the different methods to be complementary). But, I can get an old "bin find" record very clean and in a high state of play using a basic RCM, like a VPI. You don't have to spend a huge amount of money to get really good results, since much of it, as indicated, has to do with method, rather than the RCM gear itself.