Magnepans


I'm kinda new to the plannar/magnepan world, but I am really interested in trying out a pair after all the reviews I've been reading. From what I understand these speakers are quite power hungry. What is the minimum I need to properly drive these? 
I currently have a VAC Avatar integrated tube amp. These are the stats:
Type: Integrated vacuum tube amplifier with MM phono stage and home theater (direct power amplifier) mode.
Tube Complement: two 12AX7 low noise (phono), two 12AX7 (line stage), three 12AU7/6189A (power amplifier), and four EL34 (power amplifier)
Options: Remote control for volume (motorized direct control) & mute
Power amplifier ("Home Theater" direct mode):
Output matching: 4 or 8 ohms nominal
Power output: 60 watts/channel ultra-linear; 27 watts/channel triode
Frequency response: 9 Hz - 35 kHz +0 / -0.5 dB, 3 Hz - 71 kHz +0 / -3.0 dB
Power bandwidth: 11 Hz - 63 kHz + 0 / -3.0 db ref. 50 watts
Gain: 25 dB ultra-linear; 23 dB triode
Residual noise: 1.5 mv at 8 ohm output
Channel separation: -72 dB @ 1 kHz; -60 dB @ 10 kHz
Line stage preamplifier:
Gain: 24 dB
Maximum input signal: Infinite (attenuation precedes line stage)
Noise contribution: Approx. 0.1 mv at power amplifier output 
THD contribution: Approx. 0.04% 
Tape output: Unity gain from selector, non-inverting 
Phono stage preamplifier: 
Gain: 37 dB (measured at tape output)
MC phono stage in place of the MM optional 
Residual noise: 3 mv at output (S/N ratio approx. 69 dB) 
Overload: 117 mv @ 1 kHz = 8 volts RMS output, 460 mv @ 10 kHz 
Frequency response: RIAA +/- 0.25 dB 
Notes: Does not invert absolute phase. 

Anyone know if these will do or if I'll have to upgrade? Love the tube sound . . . will I need to go solid state for Maggies? Thanks for putting up with the noobie question :) 
the_nature_boy
Natureboy,

     I don't want to talk you out of using tube power on the 2.5 Maggies, they have a ribbon tweeter that I would imagine sounds great driven by tubes.  The VAC Avatar is a very good tube integrated but the truth is that 60 watts may not give you enough juice to properly drive the inefficient (84 db) 2.5s, especially the woofer section.

      It may work okay if you don't play your music too loudly and your room isn't too big.  If you listen to music with strong bass, or listen at high volumes or your room is large, I think you may be happier with a powerful (300+ watts at 4 ohm) ss amp.  When I moved from 400 watts of class A/B power to 1,200 watts of class D power, the biggest benefits were the Maggies sounded much more dynamic and the bass was the best I'd ever heard on my panels.   Class D amps typically have very high Damping factors which means woofer cones and panels are very well controlled  on both starts and stops.  This results in very solid, taut and tuneful bass. If good bass is important to you, you will definitely attain better bass performance with a class D amp than either the VAC or a class A/B and the more watts the better.

Good luck,
   Tim

 

  
or use a transistor amp (MOSFETS anyone) in a topology that sounds tubey

add a real tubey pre-amp
I can second (third) the Wyred for Sound amps. I have a Wyred STE500 (550 w/ch into 4 ohms) and am quite pleased. It is paired with Maggie .7's which are wonderful for their modest price. Current is the key with Maggies. I was driving them with a Rogue Sphinx which sounded quite good too. The Wyred amp really brought them to a different level. I will say I added a sub to fill out the bottom which was a fine addition, it is a Speedwoofer and pairs fine with the Maggies.
randy11:

"or use a transistor amp (MOSFETS anyone) in a topology that sounds tubey

add a real tubey preamp"

The better class D amps usually do use MOSFETS due to their high quality sound and ability to turn on/off very quickly. MOSFETS are excellent output devices/transistors that sound great and are typically used  in the better class A  and class D amps. 

If natureboy wants a real tubey sound, pairing a real tubey preamp with a class D amp will deliver that sound because they are very neutral and will just faithfully ampify the output of the preamp without any alteration.  This is exactly why I recommended  this combo to him in my initial post.  A VAC preamp paired with a Wyred amp, or any similarly good class D amp, would likely be a very good solution.  

Natureboy,

     I think a Vac pre-amp properly matched in impedance to a good class D amp and connected with quality XLR interconnects, would result in a sound very similar to your Avatar but with significantly more power.  Most good class D amps offer no risk in-home trial periods of up to 30 days.  If you're not satisfied, you can return it at no, or a minimal, charge.  

     If you decide on this route, I'm fairly certain you'll get plenty of good suggestions here on this thread concerning which amp  to match to your preamp choice if you request assistance. Again, my opinion is that a VAC preamp is a great choice but almost any preamp you choose can probably be matched to a good amp within your budget..

Thanks,
  Tim
Thanks for all the great info, guys! A lot of really good options to think about. 
Anyone else hear about SERVO amps working well with these speakers?