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Mark Levinson / Voltage Conversion US = Europe

Hi folks. Probably this question was already asked once before in these threads, however I could not find anything so far.

My situation: I am living in the US right now and would like to get a 326 / 431 / 390s. At some point of time (one year or so) my contract will end and I might go back to Germany.

I can not afford to get these components new, so I would buy them used in good condition, which is still a good junk of money.

However before I make this relatively big investment I wanted to know following: Is there someone someone who would professionally convert the components from US voltage to European (German) standard. It does not matter if here in the US or in Germany or in Europe.

So, to get an answer to my question I called the customer support at harman/madrigal in the US and they told me technically this would not be an issue, but they do this only for the original owner and only if you have proof of leaving the US. Apparently "just" a power-supply-platine and the back-cover would have to be changed.
For pre-owned components they referred me to the importer in Germany to check with them if they would do it. So, I called them (Sun Audio in Munich) and they told me that they will not do it either because of TUeV and CE reasons, which I think is complete BS.

Sure, I can understand that they are trying to protect their overseas market, but I look at it from this side: Every used model which is sold, creates a demand for a new one. Like I said this would only work for me, because prices are lower here, and there is no way for me to afford these components overseas.

My question now: Does anyone have experience with a conversion from US to European voltage? Who / Where / How long / How much / What to do / What not to do / etc.

Please let me know.
Thank you for your response in advance.
herrlich
t024484
4 posts
 
I have found no evidence whatsoever that the 326S or the 320S has any electronic circuit to sense the mains voltage.
You can simply change a jumper for a different mains voltage.

I know what I am talking about because I took the preamp apart, and analysed the whole thing in detail and documented every circuit.

Those kind of horrifying stories are just invented by those who want to prevent cross border selling.
You simply should not believe all nonsense that is being told.
elberoth2's avatar
elberoth2
1,223 posts
 
T024484 - did you try to run it from 230V / 50Hz mains ? I'm asking since my Krell KRC-3 amp also "looked" to be easy to convert (there are 3 switches inside that change the voltage), but after setting them to 230V the amp would not start from stand-by. I had to replace the chip inside the amp to make it work.
a1126lin
70 posts
 
how about 360s from 240V to 120V , do i need a code or is it an internal jumper?
t024484
4 posts
 
I was wrong in assuming that that was no such thing as monitoring the AC frequency.
In the 320S/326S, there is a half wave rectified ac signal being fed to a small voltage regulator (78L05).
This voltage regulator produces a neat 50 or 60Hz block wave which is TTL compatible.
This signal is called "AC Clock" on the PCB. I haven't tried out if this signal is checked against a reference, but let's assume that it probably is.

To make your 320S/326S work with a different frequency, can be solved in three ways:
1) you feed this small voltage regulator from an external source with the frequency that it is expecting . You will have to solder on the mainboard for that, or
2) you install another Eprom in the square Eprom socket, being the correct one for the required frequency. No soldering required.
3) you ask ML to change the Eprom for you.
sanderwichers
2 posts
 
It a gamble but I've bought a ML390s in the US and did the conversion myself. There was no password code and it was as simple (for someone who studied older electronics, like my father) as moving a jumper to the correct position.

If you look closely at the following picture: http://www.marklevinson.com/image_library/390SOH.jpg you'll see a white jumper block (8 positions) with copper jumpers. On the picture the jumpers are currently set at 110v (starting from the top that's (2/3 and 5/6)) and should measure something like 27 ohm between line and neutral (that's where the voltage cable goes in).

For 220v there only needs to be one jumper between 4 and 5 and this should measure around 98 ohm. For the 240v configuration one jumper should be set to 1 and 2 and should measure 109 ohm.

Cheers,
Alexander
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