More questions about dedicated lines


We are moving to a new house built in 2007  and I am fortunate enough to be able to move a wall to create a room with golden ratios. I will need to run some new electric and it gives me the opportunity to run dedicated lines.  I have spent countless hours rummaging through the 7k discussions on this topic and have a decent idea of what is needed.  My plans are to have four runs of Romex 10/2, one each for each monoblock VAC signature 200's, my digital, and my Audiokinesis swarm which has not be set up yet.  I estimate the runs to be conservatively 45 feet including up and down distances. All runs will be of equal length ending in SR  outlets. They will be separate from each other and all other lines and no metal staples will be used.  When I told him I my goal was to have the best sound he offered a suggestion that I hadn't come across in my electrical education here on the gon.  He suggested placing what sounded like a commercial power regenerator with a large battery bank as the first step out of the breaker box and running lines from this.  The other options were to run from a preexisting sub panel that has the pool pump and a few lights on it, but nothing else.  Third is straight out the breaker box.  He wanted to put the runs closest to the utility line in, stating that there will be less noise upstream than downstream, but this puts these lines next to a big double breaker (cant' remember what it is but is sure to be noisey).  He understands that I want all lines on the same phase, or line,leg.  My questions are: Of the three options, which would be best?  Is there anything else needed to minimize the risk of ground loop hum if I use separate hot, return, and gound for each line and not share ground neutrals and keep all lines separated from themselves and other lines.  If going through a subpanel with little on it, how do I manage to keep all runs on the same phase without unbalancing the breaker? A third tangential question-Is it best to use metal or plastic housing boxes for the receptacle? The question of durability of the plastic fatiguing and breaking following repeated plugging and unplugging has been mentioned but I didn't see an answer.  Finally, a huge thank you to jea and almarg for their voluminous responses in all the prior electrical discussions-I got an education.  Sadly, I still don't speak electricalese.
orthomead
EDIT:
jea483,227 posts

12-22-2019
1:57pm


Sub Panel Feeder:
If it were me I would feed the sub panel with at least #4awg copper or #2awg aluminum conductors. I would oversize the equipment grounding conductor as well.
If the electrician used #4 copper, (or #2 aluminum), he could use a 2 pole 70 amp, or a 2 pole 80 amp, breaker at the main electrical panel.


I just used the NEC ampacity rating of the wire to size the 2 pole breaker for the feeder. Going back this AM and rereading what I posted yesterday I should have posted a 2 pole 60 amp or a 2 pole 70 amp breaker. It could even be a 2 pole 50 providing the wire lug size is big enough for #4 copper or #2 Al (aluminum) wire.

Example Square D is listed at,
35A - 70A
  • 1 wire per lug: (1) #8 - #2 AWG Aluminum or Copper
https://www.se.com/us/en/faqs/FA237923/




@ audiozenology

If you are in a major city, I don’t think you will have too much trouble finding steel armoured cable. Most of the major electrical distributors will stock it, though maybe not in their branch outlets, so you may have to order today, deliver tomorrow.
You would think so. But unless there is a demand for steel armor MC cable, Electrical Wholesale Houses, today anyway, don’t stock items that just take up self space.
I called 4 large wholesale houses this morning and none of them stocked the steel armor MC cable.


My brain is starting to go into Christmas shutdown mode, so I am not sure I am 100% accurate when stating that using 120/240 will create unbalanced current which could cause ground injection. Assume I am wrong, but please check my work.
Not sure I follow, please explain.
Remember in the OP’s case his average load is around 7 amps. #4awg copper is rated for 70 amps (60 degree C, 140 F) and 85 amps (75 degree C, 167 F, THHN/THWN)
(There are factors that may apply for the adjusted ampacity rating of the wire.)


The circuit is through one of the feeder’s two hot legs and the feeder’s neutral conductor, a 7 amp load is insignificant in the scheme of things in my opinion.

Jim


Jea and audiozen-I can't thank you enough for all the time and energy put into helping me.  I feel that I am on real solid ground and will be able to convey to the electrician the direction and details necessary.  BTW these two approaches were discussed as options when the electrician made a site visit more in theory, as in we could, but without any of the details.  You have provided those details and I thank you.  I will keep you all posted as this plays out.  Merry Christmas and a happy new year to all.

Leon
Millercarbon, taking advise from a person who can't hear is better than taking advice from a person who is delusional. The vast majority of us have a limited amount of money to spend. I think that most of us would agree that the money should be spent where it will do the most good and silly AC outlets and silly cable elevators are definitely not it. 
I would hazard a guess that most educated audiophiles believe the same.
The difference between myself and them is I do not have a shred of political correctness in me and I will not pacify those that would have other people wasting their money on mythological garbage. 
The second most dangerous person in existence when it comes to spending other peoples money is an audiophile who thinks they can "hear."  The first is any politician. 
Post removed 
@jea48 ,
Hours have past without issue.
Perhaps the 'better angels of our nature' have' come to bear.


And, Merry Christmas and happy holidays, to one and all.
B