Musings on Switching Power Supplies (LPS for Oppo / DirecTV/ Radiance)


So, this whole story begins about a couple months ago when I was watching a satellite television show on my HT system.  While I was watching, I noticed that my Oppo bluray player was still on (I often turn everything on in the beginning to warm stuff up and/or listen to music).  Well, I hit the remote button to turn off the Oppo and a weird thing happened.  The sound got a little bit better.  It lost a small bit of that digital “solid-state” harshness / brightness.  I then thought, “wait a minute, something is going on here”.  The next thing I did was, even though my Oppo was powered off in “stand-by” mode, I went and just unplugged it completely.  The sound actually got a tiny bit better after that.  Now I have read postings that say switching power supplies can cause noise in other devices when they share the same circuit/outlet.  I never really gave it much thought, but apparently this is definitely a thing.  My Oppo is plugged into the same outlet as me left surround amp, which is a completely different circuit than my HT processor and other amps.  However, the switching power supply in my Oppo BDP-103 was still causing havoc in the system!

I have four dedicated 20 amp circuits for my HT equipment.  I also had two other devices that still contain switching power supplies:  DirecTV Genie satellite receiver and a Lumagen Radiance video processor.  My DirecTV was plugged into the right surround outlet and the Radiance was plugged into the same outlet as my Krell S1200 HT processor.  So the next step was to pull those out and connect them to regular house outlets (which are different circuits and not even in the same subpanel).  I could see immediately that I lost some of the video quality through HDMI.  The picture was not as sharp and it introduce a little bit of noise into the image.  However, it did improve the sound even more (got rid of more of that digital harshness).

So what to do next?  Well, of course get rid of all these switching power supplies and, somehow, implement linear power supplies!

auxinput

This next step in the process came about a day after the Teradak was in the mix, during burn-in period.  I found that the audio had suddenly become a little bright/harsh again.  After extensive testing, what I found was that the fuses and power cords for the Oppo as well as the Teradak/DirectTV “digital transports” were influencing the audio coming from the Krell HT Processor.  In additional, a fuse in one source transport was influencing the sound from another source transport, even though it wasn’t selected as an “active input”, or was put in standby mode.  The DirecTV Genie receiver is always powered up and running even when it’s in “standby” mode (internal computer and DVR are 24/7).

This discovery came when I decided to remove the Hi-Fi Tuning silver fuse from the Oppo and put in a 2A PADIS fuse instead.  The result was, even though the Oppo was powered off and in “standby-mode”, the sound from DirecTV was not as bright, but just did not sound right in the end.

At that time, the Oppo had the PADIS fuse, but had a power cord that uses cheap braided 20awg solid-core Radio Shack copper with Furutech rhodium connectors.  In other testing, I found this Radio Shack copper sounded good, but it was too warm with rolled-off highs.  Interestingly enough, this power cord on a digital HDMI source was affecting the sound from a separate DirectTV digital HDMI source through the Krell HT processor.  I switched the power cord on the Oppo to a much better braided 20awg solid-core OCC copper teflen Neotech cable wit Furutech rhodium connectors.  The sound quality improved immediately.  Weird!  In research, I think there are two wires in the HDMI cable that could contribute to this result:

Pin 18 - +5V DC

Pin 17 – Ground

Pin 18 is +5V that is supplied by the source device to power external items that do not have an external power source (this would be something like active cables or external headphone DACs or something else).

Pin 17 is ground, which is the ground plane shared across all devices in the equipment chain).

Since the +5V DC voltage is generated by the Oppo or Teradak, I believe it is making its way into the Krell processor (through the HDMI input) to the normal 5V power rail.  This will definitely influence the character as the DAC href uses this +5V voltage for generating it’s DC output voltages (among other things in the circuits).  The ground plan can influence sound as well between devices.  It could also be that the power supply on the transport is affecting how good the digital signals are (voltage levels, jitter, etc.).

So, under testing, putting a warmer fuse into the Teradak (such as an Isoclean) definitely contributed to making the audio sound warmer in the whole system.  In the end, I ended up with Furutech fuses in both Oppo and Teradak and Audioquest NRG-4 power cables with Furutech Rhodium plugs.  In the end, that was the best combination as the Furutech fuse / OCC solid-core cables are my reference in all applications.  Both the video quality and audio quality are absolutely amazing for me now.

To sum it up, the argument that “switching power supplies are not bad for digital circuits” is completely wrong for me.  I can hear the difference!  It’s amazing to me that many high end audio equipment pieces still use switching power supplies for digital sections (even though they may use linear power for analog sections).  Emotiva started on a crusade a few years ago when they started touting “switching power supplies as the future”.  I believe they were paving the way for consumer belief so that they could put in switching power supplies and make the item lighter/cheaper for shipping.  I have also read many electrical engineer statements that switching power supplies are perfectly fine as long as you have a good filter in them.  I strongly disagree!!  In fact, one of the reasons I love my Krell S1200 is that it does not use switching power supplies at all!  It uses linear power for everything.  In fact, it actually uses a fully discrete shunt regulator circuit for the +5V DAC vref, and a normal LM7812 regulator for 12V required for some digital circuits.

So, new project on my list for next year is to upgrade my computer power supply (upstairs computer audio system) to a Teredak Computer Linear Power supply and upgrade the DAC to something that uses non-switching power supply (maybe LKS MH-DA004).

@auxinput, I'm beginning to think you can read my mind lately. 🤔

I wanted to go the same route as you with a replacement LPM power unit for my OPPO 103 but Funjoe over at Clones Audio only makes them for the 205 series. The SE unit from that eBay site is supposed to run cooler than their standard version but I went with the Furutech IEC inlet with the Mundorf wiring and that made an appreciable difference so I left it at that. Here is the site if anyone is interested. I'm sure someone with better skills than me can build it for less. 👍

Since I'm only using the OPPO for movie watching, I contacted OPPO and asked their opinion on whether or not the newer line of 4K blu-ray players will out perform my old 103 if I forgo 4K and stick to standard blu-ray and they told me no, keep your 103. So, maybe someday I'll look into that SE LPM unit in the future.

Thanks for your pioneering spirit and all the best,
Nonoise

Yep, and the 203 no longer support Netflix streaming, which I use a lot!

I have seen that Clones Audio power supply as well and it looks like a very nice one indeed!  Unfortunately, like you said, they don't make one for the older 103 models.

There are a bunch of Oppo LPS on ebay from China that are all less than $130 each. These all have smaller amounts of capacitance and I'm not sure how well these actually operate, but I have no regrets with my OPPOMOD LPS.

I have also seen that Furutech + Mundorf wire update.  Yes you could make your own, but you would have to find the proper plug/connector for the main board, or just chop the stock one.  I was considering this after I did the LPS, but after my experience with silver fuse, I'm not going to introduce any silver elements into the mix.  I might upgrade the IEC inlet sometime in the future.  I have an AC-1001 rhodium filtered IEC inlet sitting here that was used in a previous project.

So what to do next? Well, of course get rid of all these switching power supplies and, somehow, implement linear power supplies!

How about your TV/Monitor? Are you considering install LPS as well?