New Maplenoll Ariadne owner needing advice


I have recently purchased a maplenoll ariadne. I have tried to learn a little about the table but find very little information. I know the table was discontinued in the 90's but the little i have found indicated it is a very good table. I am interested to learn if there are any tricks or problems to optimizing this table. As most of you probably know, it is an air bearing platter and tonearm. I plan on putting my zxy airy 3 on the arm once I get it set up.
oilmanmojo
The use of terms is whats mudding up the water. So lets drop them all . What Graves was relaying is simply:
What adjustments you make at the end of the tone-arm are dependent on on weither the manifold is square to the table. A fraction of a degree off presents significant challenges. Graves is one of many reviewers who made similar observations.

Thanks for your input. Perhaps I would do better to put out a E-Book complete with pics, history , reprints , manuals, Q&A, etc. and of course input from folks like you--What do you think ? The only problem is that so few 'Nolls were manufactured. Mr. D is quoted @ 1,700+ about 18 months before production stopped I doubt the effort is worth it.
I believe I got you the first time but it still doesn't follow for me. If you don't use the pin to lock in the position of the overhang adjustment guide, anchoring the guide only at the platter spindle, overhang remains your only adjustment that effects tangency so long as you adjust the guide to the appropriate angle of the arms traverse. By definition, tangency is defined only by arm traverse and overhang.

BTW, Bob was famous for his casual approach to details of execution. I have done quite a bit to clean up my 'noll, as you know.
Piedpiper :

According to George M. Graves , "Stereophile", Vol 9, #2, issue 80, he believed that all Maplenoll's (leaving the factory) should be dealer installed .

It was Graves belief that most times fine-tuning was incomplete at the time of manufacture ,therefore, either the buyer or the dealer must complete the job. Graves remarks suggest that the AB Arm on the 'Noll is sometimes not square (in a construction-sence) of the word.

Essentally, the arm is a L configuration , that is supposed to be in tangent ( @ 90* ) to the center of the lower-bearing plate hole. The Air Manifold itself secures the L portion of the arm in the proper position (tangent) as to be square . The Air Manifold is secured to the table by two oversized holes . Under the table are two bolt heads. Those bolts actually run thru the oversized holes screwing into the manifold. Should the manifold be ever so slightly "cocked" either to the left or right , the tangency and adjustments you mentioned are affected.

A perfectly squared tone-arm means that when installing a cartridge the stylus tip should run perfectly in the center of the line located on the overhang adjustment guide. Often that is not the case for the entire line of 'Noll Tables. Should that key factory setting be a faction of a fraction of a degree off, it contributes to phono "dancing/wobbeling" in the grooves. Graves solution was to loosen the bolts readjust the manifold and WHA-La!

Have I made my explanation more clearly understood or am I missing something ?

Piedpiper, my appology for not providing a fuller explanation. I have aquired stacks of doctuments that dribbel out gem after gem of info . My problem is figuring how to release the gems and not the slush. My attempt was to be brief not vague.
"off" in what parameter? Horizontal is controlled by left and right cones under the plinth. Tangency is controled by headshell/cartridge/overhang adjustments. Am I missing something?
Threaders: I'm back from the medical detour . While on the mend I came upon a packet of Maplenoll info that Bob D. mailed to me in '91 that had been opened but largely unread. The packet contained lots of stuff ; pic's, reprints , 'Noll annoucements and reprints from Audio Clubs and Mags, etc .

A useful bit of info from the packet . Have you ever noticed that when you attempt adjust the cartridge sometimes the stylus maybe "on the money" on the outer edges of a Lp and "off" on the Ctr. or last portions of the groove. The arm manifold maybe slightly-off. The fix ? Just loosen the two bolts on the underside that hold the air manifold in place and adjust the arm until it's prefectly square. Great idea. No more repeaters or jumps on certian pressings. Good for all 'Nolls and similar AB Arms.
Threaders : Momentive Performance Materals (formerly GE) , an industral raw materials supplier , forwarded several additional sample batches of bonders for experimentation with the air supply control (ASC) system. Hopefully , some of these compounds will seal the ASC . Before I can report sucess or ---, I'm taking a slight medical detour . CYS
I recently purchased a jun-air compressor model 6-15. The flowrate is rated for approx 2 cfm. The compressor keeps up with my system good. but I find after about 2 hours of continuous use the compressor gets pretty hot. 3 cfm would do nicely and would allow the compressor enough cycle time that overheating should not be a problem.
The platter size shouldn't matter. I'm not sure how to answer the rest of question though.
Can anyone advise the air flow needed for the 70 pound platter model, I understand it should be 40-45psi pressure, but to size the compressor I need to know the flow/displacement in cfm.
Thanks.
James.
Threaders : Problems with Air Supply Chain (ASC) :

Specialists @ GE ( thread & PVC sealants ) report that for a variety of reasons the sealants I previously applied were not designed to work with PVC & metals . GE is forwarding industrial samples to apply. GE said that their products should seal the entire chain boosting the PSI . More to come soon.
Threaders: Air Supply Chain(ASC):
A odd thing happened following my last thread, the ASC started to spring leaks in places that already had been checked were ok. This is more challenging than I initially expected. Everthing in the air chain is going to be re-tested. I will keep you informed.
Air Supply Control:
Threaders; Using "hit an miss" , I have setteled upon a professional-type Air Control Unit I use to deliver a clean, oil free air supply from the Maplenoll Quiet Pump. The product , manufactured by Central Pneumatic, available at Harbor Freight , on-line or in their stores, # SKU 1118, consists of a air regulator, air control and filter unit. The specifications are ; operating pressure 160 PSI (Max.), Inlet size 1/2"NPT , Oultet size 1/4"NPT ( adapters/barbs required) , re-useable/ replaceable filter , Dimensions 11-3/4" Tall x 3-7/8" Dia. x 8-3/4" Deep , Weight 5-1/2 lbs., Filter up to 40 microns and Max.Capacity 21 C.F.M. @ 90 PSI. Sale Price $29.99. The Unit enters the air supply chain a few feet from the air output of the QT.

After the Air Control Unit, I follow-up with a secondary oil/water separator, a replaceable air filter , a charcole filter, a plenum (6"x41") that sends pressurized air to room where the 'Noll sits. At the 'Noll, all Walker Recommendations were implemented exactly as written with additional plenums/charcole filtering followed by 100' of tubing dedicated to the tone-arm . With the exception of a tweak here and there, the air supply chain is complete. More to come later.
Threaders: Quite Pump Care (QP)

If you own a Maplenoll Quite Pump like is understandable you want to extend the life of the QP as long as possible.

Scott Leventhal includes some upgrade hose and fittings recommendations on his Tweak Sheet. Fotunately, the hoses and fittings on my QP are in excellent condition; The work been apparently done at the factory long ago.

However, besides implementing the QP recommendations mentioned earlier , I did a homework regarding the pump lubericant. The factory recommendated MOBIL 1 (5-30 SAE). Another synthetic alternative to Mobil 1 is AMSOIL 5W-30 SAE. The product has been extensively tested in racing circles and reportly outperforms all other syn. oils. I have used the product in my car for years so I decided to use the AMSOIL in the pump. After, the VERY messy job of clearing the pump of who's knows what via 17 years of faithful service;I replaced the oil, cleaned the pump, and replaced the filter. I then rechecked the pump for air leaks and gently retightened the clamps. The result ? A consistent air flow of not less than 45 PSI, a cooler and less noisey pump in operation. As always my results may not be your own , so you take your chances but for me no problems.
Threaders: ]

The E.T.Manual recommends a particular air filter the Motor Guard Model D-13. This filter is a superior replacement to the white paper filter Maplenoll included with the Tables. Its specifications are: Pipe Size 1/4" NPT (needs 1/4 x 1/8 barbs) , Max. Floor @ 80 PSI 1800 SCFH, Max Pressure 100 PSI, Max Temp 175 F , Removal Rating (norm) .01 microns, Size 21/2x3". Price on www.weilerwelding.com reg.$7.05 sale $5.84 + shipping .

According to the Manuals, the filter is a must to keep gunk from clogging the Tonearm's Air Bearing Sleve. The filter should to be installed before or after the last plenium that feeds the air supply. Some reviewers recommend placeing the filter close to the pump. Take your pick of options. An alternative is a china made knock-off at Harbor Tools, Inc 2 for $2.99 on sale. No specs available.
Threaders: I located a source of information on the Web relating to air bearing tonearms. Go to www.EminentTechnology.com and download the manual for their Tonearm. Lots of good stuff including maintenance and other issues related to air bearing tonearms. Some interpertation to our situation required but all things considered a excellent addition to anyone's library...And besides its free.
My Jun-Air compressor came in today. I found a good deal on an overstock item on Ebay. The model# is 6-15. It is an oil lube compressor that is easily delivering 50 psig to the table. The noise factor is nil. Its about like a refrigerator. Jun-Air is used a lot in the research and medical industry. Pluto Audio also uses Jun-Air. The compressor is built like a tank so its actually a good match for the Maplenoll table.
Threaders : I am in the middle of a revision of my table beyond what has already been discussed. I will summarize the results when revisions are completed and tested.
Opus100 :

Regarding the upper platter bearing grease , a subtitute that appears to similar is the Merril " Black Bearing Oil" sold on the Vinyl Nirvan Web site for $15.00 US a pop. Different , but with plenty of the black stuff.

I mix a dab of teflon firearm lube inside the bearing itself with existing black oil lodged in the top of the bearing interior w/ a tooth pick as a mixer.
Opus100:

Thank you for the reply. The questions you pose should most likely be answered by Ernesto , would you consider contacting them and post the results ?

Opus: Do you own a airbearing TT and if so what model. Please share your experiences with the TT and air pump to enhanse the information on the thread.
Below are the specs from the website on the DR 500:

Super Silent compressors are virtually "noiseless" and are totally automatic. Each unit includes a tank and line pressure gauge, line pressure regulator, moisture trap-filter-gauge, safety-valve, air intake filter and a carrying handle.

1/2 HP
1 1/2 Gallon Tank
2.0 CFM Free Air - 50% Duty Cycle
40 dB/a
114 PSI Op-Pressure
Voltage: 110 V-60
Shipping Weight: 53 lbs

The SQP came with an oak box with a brass screen on the top. The oil for the trough is common motor oil; not sure about the grease for the platter bearing.

The belt size depends on whether you have the older style with the belt going around the subplatter or the later style with it going around the platter itself. Simply measuring it and ordering the closest thing you can find on the internet is what I have done for customers who have required a replacement. As I have removed the motor from the plinth I have gone to dental floss. Pierre at Mapleshade recommends silk thread. Lloyd Walker uses silk ribbon. Thom Makris uses video tape if I'm not mistaken.
Thanks for the info Crem1

I wonder if the DR-500 has an air conditioner, or Filter with a oil/water separator.

What is the discerning factor that one has the "Super Quiet" pump (SQP). Other then then the obvious, of it being quieter, what are the visual cues that one has a super quiet pump? I believe that the SQP was an option.

What are individuals using as the replacment for the lubrication of the top air bearing? ( the grease substance that originally came in a syringe) As well as the replacement for the viscous oil in the trough?

What about replacment belts?
Threaders:

Over the years I have aquired recommendations for pump maintance which I summarize :

1. Those who understand our air pumps emphasize that having oil in the Maplenoll Super Quiet Pump is essental. The Manual calls for Mobil 1 synthetic (SAE 5-30) as the perfered lubricant.

2. The pump should be no more than 3/4 full of lubricant. Apparently, the lubricant evaporates with usage and must be checked every 180 days (6 mon.) to assure the pump will properly operate. Never over-fill. Over-filling may cause pump failure.

3. The two small air plenums and any other plenums you have should be vacated of water when servicing the pump. The reason is that the water from the two small internal plenums can back-up into the pump causing failure of the unit. Clear the others to keep water vapor from becomming a problem.

4. Change the intake filter on the pump yearly. I use a automoblie gas filter -- Works like a charm.

For further details , please request a copy of the Signature Ariadne Manual developed by Mr. leventhal, as posted earlier in the thread.
Opus100 :

The short answer is that for years I have been looking for a replacement and the Dr-500 appears to fit the bill.

I personally came to that conclusion after speaking to Tech. Assistance with "Ernesto" ; the fellow seemed to be knowledgeable and understood that a replacement quiet pump was required to work with a TT.

The Tech. recommended the Dr-500 because he felt from the limited tech.information I had that this pump would deliver inspades. The gentleman asked me a series of questions concerning the TT and seemed satisified the 500 was right for the application.

Unfortunately, Bob Dilger did not provide any specifications before dissappearing from the scene. I know that Scott Leventhal , an ardent Maplenoll TT supporter, is organizating an effort to search out replacement pumps. I E/M him the same information posted for his review.

I have been a Maplenoll owner for 17+ years. In a community as small as ours, some owners reach out for assistance to dogged problems. The air pumps are a headache.

Personally, I would not purchase a 'Noll unless it came with a operating Quite Pump due to cost constrants. Cost was of equal importance . The Dr-500 is on sale an MAYBE an answer . As always its buyer be awaire . Should you have any further interest in a Quiet Pump please contact Ernesto.
Crem1

Why the DR-500 model versus the others in the "SilentAir" range? Was that the suggestion of the tech? There is not very much information on the pumps internal configuration etc.. on the web page.
That is about 400 less than the cheapest Jun-Air model 3. I saw the silent air line but could not find anyone who had direct experience with them. My Jun-Air will be in next week and i will post my results. I also recieved in the stillpoints yesterday.
Threaders:

In response to a few of your emails I believe I may have located a replacement pump for the Maplenoll Super Quite Pump. Check out www.silentaircompressor.com , click on Silent Pumps, to Super Silent Dr-500 (Sale Price $620+S/H --Reg. $900.US) The pumps are distributed by Ernesto, 7941 Katy Freeway, Suite 320, Houston ,TX 77024. P/N 1-866-1320 8AM-6PM PST. The person I spoke to said the pumps make virtually no noise & are warranted for life. Mastercharge,Visa & American Express accepted. For those in need Check them out.
Threaders:

Neither rain nor snow or sleet will keep Audio-Heads from their appointed rounds--In other words despite a Snow-Ice Storm here on the East Coast , my audio bud delivered TAS # 50 & 51 to the Ranch. No word from TAS yet.
Threaders: A 'Goner emailed me TAS published two additional articles on 'Nolls penned by Lumley . The articles appeared in Vol. 12 Issues 50 & 51 1987. A audio bud in the process of downsizing his Audio Library , located # 50 & 51 and is sending them to me.

A few days ago I emailed TAS inquiring if they objected to re-printing of Lumley's articles on this thread. No response yet. I'll keep you informed.
Oh : Eunice is actually Enid Lumely --Single Malt Scotch does it to me everytime.
OOPS: Slight correction(s); The TAS Volume 12 designation is for both Issue # 48 July/August 1987 and Issue # 49 Fall 1987. Again Happy Hunting !
Threaders :

A Brief Review of Maplenoll Athea : Athea AB , Athea AB MKII & MKII

Maplenoll made several versions ,noted above, of the Athea ; a air bearing , belt driven , wood / lead , spring suspended record player. Most Maplenoll's can be accurately defined as record players due to the fact they are all-an-one less the phono cartridge.

The Absolute Sound Magazine(TAS) published a 2 part article penned by Eunice Lumley, Volume 11/12, Issues 48/49, Fall 1987 that are a must for any maplenoll owner , but most importantly, Athea owners.

Eunice took 2 years to write the Article(s) using 3 Athea's that she intensly tweaked for next to no-money ($6.). Much of what she generalizes in useful tweaks can apply to other 'Noll's as well.

According to Lumely , all Athea's prior to 1986 are to be avoided due to a myrid of quality & design issues. Eunice wrote that players named "Athea" (ed.with additional designations reflecting post '86 ) are the ones to own .

Maplenoll's claim to fame for the Athea's was the price --$795 w/a alum-lead platter and clunky air pump. However, all tricked out Eunice felt the Athea was the " Value of the Century" or something like that.

Unfortunately, TAS has made a decision not to generally publish articles before Issue 122 for a myriad of potental legal/ownership problems.

Issues 48 & 49 are copyrighted materals so reprinting as a "freebe" can be dicey if not expensive (federal fines) for the publisher. But do not dispair. Thousands of #48/49 were published and most surive to show up on the used market @ $10/$15 who those who know of there value-- $2/$3 for those who do not. Good Hunting.
Chazro,

the Athena you describe having had was a far cry for the later models which got less and less tweeky. They, as well as virtually any table, still get better given a willingness to get your hands dirty.
I have ordered the stillpoints and will let you know how they do in my system. I agree with the increase in pressure and air pressure regulation. I still have not brought my permanent air compressor but i have a great dampening system similar to what you are talking about.I do have a 30 gallon tank that my compressor is connected to and have the pressure regulated from that vessel. The larger tank along with the "walker" plenums definitely smooth out the pressure. I will end up going with a jun-air model 3 (oil lubricated compressor) but will wait until I get my move finished (relocating everything to Shreveport, La). The higher pressure smoothed out everything. I am working on a carbon fiber tonearm but it will require some modifications to spindle to get it right. Once finished, it will allow for direct cable connection with the phono preamp and allow for easier VTA adjustment.
I've been following this thread with interest as I used to own a Mapleknoll 20 yrs ago! Was the original model with the funky wood body. It was one of the finest sounding turntables I'd ever owned BUT...man, did she require attention. Pumps, hoses, air pressure and having to find places isolated enough to set it all up. I bought myself a Linn/Ittok/Lingo in 1990 that's still working flawlessly to this day. I always felt the Mapleknoll was the better sounding table but I opted for the simplicity of JUST worrying about leveling, VTA, VTF and all the rest!
Oilmanmojo: As The 'Noll Evolves.

The stillpoints are amazing . They rekindeled a passion for change. I now recognize that more air regulation--per Piedpiper recommendations (here and on the Air Pump Thread) and L. Walkers letter--should be implemented to achieve superior regulation of the TT's air supply. Hopefully the efforts will translate into more "musical-ness-ness" or something akin to that.

This is not my first A/S redo but I intend to tweek out more control than in times past. What I currently have is not shabby , but I'm moveing ahead to the land of air regulation.

To that end , I went on a buying sarfari camping @ "Harbor Tools". There I purchased ; (2) Air Pressure Regulators (0-160 PSI) , (1) inline brass in-line regulator ,(2) Oil/Water separators and (1)Charcoal-Type Filter . I also picked-up several solid brass adaptors to reduce the 1/4'' NPT Male Inlets & Female outlets on everything down to 3.17 mm (1/8''). Every purchase was on sale priced -- 50% off , then another 50% on the remaing cost. The total was $19.60. Cheep!

A quick excursion to nearby "Home Depot" was in order where I sourced several more brass adaptors -- a must for the project @ $2.35 per item. A stop-over @ Pep Boys Auto, Small Parts Aisle for "Vacu-Tite T-Valves'"@ $1.99 ea., as well as, several "Purolator Fuel Filters" @ 3.99 ea. On the way home I couldn't resist throwing-a-line @ "Pet Smart" . The Fish Department had all sorts of goodies -- "Top Fin" air connectors, brass T's & Check-Valve/ Air Filters all 3.17 mm sized @ 1.99 each. So its over-kill: I bought'em all. Now its a numbers game ... putting #1 here and #2 there until all is completed. Oh, I didn't forget the teflon tape and pipe joint compound all ready at the Audio-Ranch.

The Ranchero holds a scad of Air Plenum's( Scott Leventhal's design ) and an additional 500' of 'Noll tubing. As I recoop from surgery I intend to tackel the air issue one foot pound at a time. Soon I'll thread back the results. Much more to come (Maybe) .
Oilmanmojo: The exact product is The Stillpoints , Universal Resonance Damper , www.stillpoints.us , 1-800-830-1557. The Riser is actually a "threaded cup" that allows you to screw in or out the stillpoint for adjustment purposes.

What did I hear ? An entirely different soundstage; deeper 3-D effect, greater space between instruments, voices that float effortlessy in the air, the deepest bass I have ever extracted from LP's with my rig. A musical presentation that enveloped my sences , something I only experienced with TT and Tonearms costing a king's ransom .

I'm in a state of shock how MUCH MORE MUSIC that Table can produce and I have yet to implement all the tweeks suggested by Piedpiper.

As for the platter I have not yet re-balanced mine ... I would consider professional assistance to smooth out the "bump". Do you have a s.o.t.a. model airplane association in your area? I have been told that some groups have professional balancing machines for plane props. Since prop balancing is of such importance to flight I suspect several members maybe of assistence. Just an informed guess.
Crem1
What type of stillpoint/riser did you get and how did you install? did you replace the brass cones with the stillpoint cone? The technology basically creates a suspension for the maplenoll. I have experienced how easy vibration finds its way to the music so i understand how this can help. WHat difference did you hear? Were the quiet passages quieter? Just trying to understand where to expect the improvement. On a separate note, have you ever rebalanced or smoothed out your platter. I still have a "bump" in mine that I am working to eliminate myself using a random pattern sander. Do i need to take the platter to a machine shop to have it properly leveled?
The addition of the stillpoints created an abrupt change in my thinking.

Forget a change in arms...Perhaps forget a radical change to the table. JUST ... Buy the Stillpoints/w Risers ... Remember, the Raven AC comes with them @ $10K US. The AC is also an unsuspended TT.

This whole experience beyond whatever I guessed the the improvement could be , or should be. A 'Noll w/a Stillpoints Pkg. is another table.

I know that I may sound "preachy" but the experience has been mind-bending.
Threaders : A good friend suggested that the Stillpoints Universal Resonance Dampers would be a perfect match for the 'Noll . A couple days later the Stillpoints and Risers appeared for sale on the 'Gon and I purchased them.

The difference is dramatic. The table has undergone such a transformation that I'm in a state of disbelief . For the money I have never encountered such a musical change. The Stillpoints are so critical I do not feel I could part with them . In my opinion neither brass or lead can compete with the Stillpoints.

Its essential that the entire kit of risers and points be used so the table can be fully adjusted. A set of 3 risers and points will set you back $400.00 retail. Worth every penny . Check out www.stillpoints.us for the tech. details.
Thanks for all of the tips and ideas to set up a maplenoll. I finally have the oil trough installed and am working on tweaking the vtf and vta to find the best setting. Huge improvement in bass response as the oil system was implemented. I really like the way the zyx air 3 works with this system. I love to listen to the Buckingham/Nicks album,great soundstage and incredible detail from the subtle acoustics to the incredible range of vocals from the two singers. The Dr John, Night Tripper album is another one that just comes alive with this system. You can almost smell the french quarter listening to it. I am still looking for a permanent air compressor system that is quiet enough but can deliver the pressure i am looking for. Anyone have experience with Jun-Air? They are a little pricey but based on the specs, seem to be a solid and quiet compressor. I am also looking to make a carbon fiber tonearm to see what improvement that will have. Again thanks for the tips.
Oilman, unfortunately, it's been so long since I've done without the oil trough I couldn't tell you too specifically. The VTF issue has to do with the fact that the oil will "float" the arm a bit and must be compensated for. The best way to do this is to accurately measure the VTF with the oil trough in place AT RECORD LEVEL, meaning your gauge must measure with the stylus at the same height off the platter than the thickness of a record. The VTF should be set for the same as you would without the oil asuming that is the "correct" VTF. As always, fine tuning by ear is the thing. Theoretically speaking, VTA should be "right" with or wthout the oil but again fine tuning by ear is the answer. In general I'm guessing you'll notice an increase in transparancy throughout the whole range that goes along with better tracking. You might want to experiment with different amounts of oil, being sure to adjust VTF accordingly. Good luck!
Piedpiper: I moved the pressure up to 40 psig and definately see the improvement in the arm and platter. Thanks for the tip. I am getting ready to add the oil trough now that I have the vta/vtf set. What should I expect from this move. The manual suggest a little more VTF and possible more VTA. What has been the experience as you or others have moved to using the oil trough. thanks again for the tips. I will hopefully get my pics posted on my system this weekend.
Crem,

I posted new pics on my system site including a close up of the motor mount.
Oilman, I think you'll find a PSI of twice what you're using will work much better.

Just to clarify, re: Lloyd's letter, the signature arm that I have has a solid aluminum machined VTA bracket rather than the folded one pictured, the counterweight tube has an aluminum insert rather than plastic and it is flush rather than protruding, and there is no paint on any of the arm parts.
For those interested, I finally figured a way to get the lloyd walker letter scanned and posted. You can find by clicking on my system and looking at the pics under the maplenoll tweaks. My system has the tweaks mentioned except the packing of the counterweight arm. I continue to adjust my system and finally have the air setting about right. I find 20-25 psig works well with my system. I about have the VTA/VTF adjusted to my satisfaction without the oil system. That will be my nest iteration. I did have to smooth out the underside of the platter due to the damage it recieved, but once that rub was removed, the quietness of the table improved greatly. Anyway, hope you enjoy the tweaks letter.
I use Acrotec 46ga 6N, single strand per leg. It's a pain to deal with without breaking, and soldering can be tricky, but it's worth it. If you sand the ends with 600 grit gently before soldering you'll have better luck. Michael Percy sells it.
Piedpipe : Thanks for the reply . I also have been attempting to locate acrolink internal stress free wire for a re-wire of the phono wires . So far no luck. Much thanks... Charlie
been outa town. no tape, tried to true it up and left some marks. I'll get you some pics within the next couple days. still workin on the screws. found the motor was fine when mounted properly.
Piedpiper: I attempted to look at your 1/17 pic's for cues to the motor mounting. Unfortunately , some of the mounting is obscured. Do you have any recommendations for a replacement motor ? From the pic it appears the outside of your platter has been taped --Is that correct ? Have you found those brass bolts ? Lots of Q's ... All the Best