PC for Brsyton 4B SST

Freakygreek - just be aware that it is called a "cheater" plug because using it to disconnect a safety ground is illegal. There is a very good reason why it's illegal. You can create a serious safety hazard by using a "cheater" plug to disconnect a safety ground.

Some equipment will benefit from aftermarket powercords. I've owned many Bryston amps over the years, and I have not found any power cords that improved the sound of the Bryston amps. I have, however, found a couple that made the Brystons sound worse.

So, I stick with stock power cords on my Brystons.

Tvad - ground adapter plugs are sold so that you can connect a device requiring a safety ground connection to an outlet that does not have a 3rd ground pin, but HAS A GROUNDED OUTLET BOX. It is not designed to allow a device requiring a safety ground to be used without such a ground.

A grounded outlet box is one where the box itself is grounded. If properly grounded, the wallplate screw will be a path to earth.

That is why the adapter plug has a metallic clip or pigtail to connect to the grounded wallplate screw. It is permissible to use this approach, thus the adapter plugs are legal to sell.

Using the adapter plug without connecting to ground is "cheating," which is why it's called a "cheater" plug. Using it to defeat the ground is against NEC. NEC has the force of law in pretty much every locale in the US, so it's illegal to use a ground adapter as a "cheater" plug.

Also, installing new outlets without proper grounding, as you suggest, is illegal, incredibly dangerous, and stupid. If you had a problem because of the installation of an illegal electrical system, your homeowner's insurance could legally refuse to pay any claim.

Freakygreek - Tvad's suggestion is a good one, assuming the "buzz" you are hearing is ground hum. What often happens is that the ground potential between two components is different, causing a ground loop.

What you are trying to do by connecting a wire between the two chassis' is equalize the potential, thus minimizing the loop. You will need to make sure that you are connecting the wire to a grounded point on the chassis of each component. Chassis screws are usually good for this, and there's an easy way to make sure the screw is grounded if you have a meter.

If you have access to an ohmmeter or multimeter, disconnect the component from power and the rest of your gear. Set the meter to read in ohms, then touch one lead to the screw you want to use as a connection point for the wire, and touch the other lead to the outer sleeve of an RCA jack on the back of the component. If the meter zeros out, the screw is grounded. If it doesn't, look for another screw until you've found one that does. The screw is grounded to the chassis, and you can use it to attach the wire.

Your wire should be long enough to connect the grounded points on the two chassis' of course. Since you are trying to equalize ground by giving it a better path, you want the wire to be at least the same gauge as the ground wire in the thickest power cord you are using. So, if your Bryston amp's power cord is 14ga, you want the wire to be at least 14ga. 12ga would be better, but no need to get ridiculously large. Make sure it's insulated wire - bare wire could touch something else and create a bad ground.

Connect the wires as Tvad suggests, and see if the buzz goes away. If it does, you can make it fancy by getting some lugs so that you can more easily connect the components with the ground wire.

If it doesn't go away, and you don't have any other components connected, your buzz is probably not from a ground loop. It's probably from something like flourescent lights or an electric motor on the same electrical circuit. If that's the case, you will have no choice but to move the audio gear onto another circuit if you want to get rid of the noise.