PC for Brsyton 4B SST

I just recently purchased a Bryston amp and I'm considering PC for it. My budget is limited so nothing very expensive. I already have a TG Audio SLVR on my CDP with good effect but want to know what else is there.

So far Michael Wolff gain cord is one contender along with TG Audio. What other cables would you guys suggest.

Many Thanks
while there are a few Bryston owners who use aftermarket pcs to some "better" result I think they are in the minority as most owners do not experience any benefits. You are better to spend your money elsewhere but if it makes you sleep better at night then try and audition a few with a money back guarantee and don't be afraid to send the cables back. You can get a few for trial via the Cable Company.
I am using a TG Audio SLVR with my 4BSST. The biggest difference I noticed was in the relative silence between the notes.
I read somewhere that Kimber Palladian cords are synergistic with the new Bryston SSTs.

Thanks guys for the responses. When the time comes for my next purchase I'll be looking into the above mention cables or a Power Conditioner(BPT 3.5 Sig or ExactPower).

Any thoughts on what would be more benificial.


It is my understanding that Bryston doesn't recommend aftermarket PC's...I had a B60...tried a PS labs mini PC and didn't notice much if anything...when I borrowed an "ultimate outlet"...I noticed that the power conditioning (with the stock powercord) had a greater effect than the powercord upgrade without the "ultimate outlet" there as much of a perceptable difference using either PC with or without the conditioning.

Which line conditioner should you use?...I have no idea as I'm completely uneducated with regards to them...perhaps some more experienced posters can recommend one as an alternative to a cable upgrade.

just my 2c

I have Bryston 4B-ST and 5B-ST amps, and upgraded both of their power cords. If there was any difference in the resulting sound quality, it was way too subtle for my ears. I'd follow Bryston's advice (their standard power cords are fine) and spend your money on something else.
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Some equipment will benefit from aftermarket powercords. I've owned many Bryston amps over the years, and I have not found any power cords that improved the sound of the Bryston amps. I have, however, found a couple that made the Brystons sound worse.

So, I stick with stock power cords on my Brystons.
I concur with those who recommend saving your money and spending it on more CDs, SACDs, or LPs.

Thanks guys for the input I'd rather spend my money else where. The fellow I bought it from used stock cord but he did use an ExactPower unit. Do you guys think a line conditioner is more in line. I'm trying to eliminate EMI/RFI wanting to create a black soundstage which I don't have.

Anythoughts on a viable conditioner that won't alter the sonic signature of my components.

Many Thanks

P.S I still have $$$ to buy CD's. My local HMV as a buy 3 get 1 free limited only to Jazz,Blues,Classical.
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I'm sorry I've should have mentioned that I live in an apartment and dedicated lines is not an option. That is why I thought of a Power Conditioner. Even though I can't here it(Buzzing,hissing) from my listening position I know it's there and it bothers me. I just cant't figure it out.
If I must I'll live with it untill I move and get a dedicated room and power.

Tommorow I'll try to call Bryston and see what they suggest.

Many Thanks
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My listening distance is 10.5ft and I hear the buzzing from 1.5ft away. It doesn't seem to increase in intensity as I turn up the volume. I can't judge position with my volume nob but from 17dB-0db there was no increase in intensity. At +9 db maximum setting the buzzing did increase.

I've read that Nad recievers have dirty transformers hence the noise. What do you think I should do. I do have my reciever plugged into a Monster HTS2100.
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I can hear the buzzing without having to put my hear right up to the tweeter.

The volume range on my receiver goes from -00 where there is no sound. The next step is -61Bd where sound buzzing begins and it ends at+9Bd.

Here is what I've figured out so far. With the reciever on but not my Bryston there is no buzzing. Once I turn on the amp the buzzing starts.

With the amp powered and the Nad off there is still buzzing. If it ends up to be a grounding issue how can I go about fixing it. I've tried my best at arranging my cables but things are pretty tight back there.
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Thanks for the time you've taken in trying to help me.

With the reciever completely disconnected there was no buzzing but hissing. I've tried connecting the amp straight to the wall and into my powerbar to little effect.

Believe I've tried myself and thought to give it anoher try. I wish there was a device that would pinpoint the problem instead of all this trial and error.

I have searched and found ground loop isolators ranging from $9.00 to over $100.00 but I'm leary.

Many Thanks
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The hiss was still present with the amp connected to the powerbar. The buzz is Present when the amp is turned on. Connections are via RCA.

Here is what I've come up with so far.
Reciever on ,amp on but no RCA cables=no buzz
Reciever on,amp on connected=buzz
Reciever connected to amp but unplugged=buzz
Reciever on,amp off=no buzz
Reciever off,amp on= buzz
Both on=buzz
Source components connected/disconnected=buzz

At this point I thought it might be my rca cables but when I connected my speakers to my reciever like I used to have it the buzz was still there.

This is getting so confusing it's driving me to drink,smoke, and the night is still young.

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thanks for all the help. If I ever get this solved I will post it. I kinda thought it might have been my reciever. I don't recall the buzzing being present with my old reciever an Onkyo.

I'll try to see if I can borrow a preamp and do some experimenting.

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Thanks for the info. I guess that I would use this on the male end. I'll look into them tommorow.

Thanks again.
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Make sure the PC on the Bryston is not close to your speaker wires. If they are touching, that may be a problem. My hissing/buzzing dissappeared after I moved the PC away from the speaker cables.
Freakygreek - just be aware that it is called a "cheater" plug because using it to disconnect a safety ground is illegal. There is a very good reason why it's illegal. You can create a serious safety hazard by using a "cheater" plug to disconnect a safety ground.

Concerning cheater plugs I didn't know that they were illegal. I found out today when I called my local HomeDepot.

I'll have to rethink my course of action.
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I live in Toronto,Canada and I can buy them but not at a hardware store. According to the sales person at my local homedepot they are a banned item.

I was told I can buy them at the local dollar store but how effective are they I don't know.

Tvad - ground adapter plugs are sold so that you can connect a device requiring a safety ground connection to an outlet that does not have a 3rd ground pin, but HAS A GROUNDED OUTLET BOX. It is not designed to allow a device requiring a safety ground to be used without such a ground.

A grounded outlet box is one where the box itself is grounded. If properly grounded, the wallplate screw will be a path to earth.

That is why the adapter plug has a metallic clip or pigtail to connect to the grounded wallplate screw. It is permissible to use this approach, thus the adapter plugs are legal to sell.

Using the adapter plug without connecting to ground is "cheating," which is why it's called a "cheater" plug. Using it to defeat the ground is against NEC. NEC has the force of law in pretty much every locale in the US, so it's illegal to use a ground adapter as a "cheater" plug.

Also, installing new outlets without proper grounding, as you suggest, is illegal, incredibly dangerous, and stupid. If you had a problem because of the installation of an illegal electrical system, your homeowner's insurance could legally refuse to pay any claim.
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Many ground loops are the result of dc on the cable tv line or dss. If you have video hooked thru your audio system and have a bad buzz going, remove the co-ax cable from the input of the cable box or dss receiver..If the bad buzz vacates, then the problem is on the line..Also if you have several pieces of audio hooked to 2 or 3 ac outlets you may be encountering different ground potentials which will give you an offset and result in hum or a bad buzz.Tom

Thanks everyone for trying to help me.

Here's is an update to my situation. I went today to a local stereo shop and explained my problem. He suggested that I purchase a Audiophile APS unit. The 700 watt version retailed at 2700.00 Cad a bit out of my price range for now.

Just to set things straight I've tried disconnecting my cable entirely and the buzz still remains. The video is hooked up to my Monster Power Bar and from there to my TV.

All of my components except my amp are hooked to my power bar. The outlet I'm using is a switched one by that I mean a wall switch cuts all power. I've tried tackling this problem before by unplugging all house app and switching outlets the buzz still remains.

I thought some fresh blood this time around might give me some fresh insights.

Many Thanks
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I agree with you about the power conditioner.

My reciever is for now operating for both 2/ch and HT duties.

Yes it is correct when the reciever is not connected to the amp and both are turned on there is only a slight hiss. The hiss does not increase with the volume a good thing right.

With the reciever and amp connected and both turned on the buzz returns. It also returns when my amp is taken out of the loop and the reciever running the whole show.

You mentioned the use of a wire can you give me any suggestions.

I have a better repore with another store a different one but I haven't asked them. Next time I visit them I will.

Tommorow I will call Bryston and find out about a ground screw and I'll try the same with Nad.
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Unfortunately I bought the amp from a fellow Audiogoner.

Yes the amp is for amplifying the Lt and Rt channels. It might take some doing in obtaining a loaner piece of any kind, but I'll try nonetheless.

What would it mean if I try the wire test and the buzzing goes away or stays the same.
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Freakygreek - Tvad's suggestion is a good one, assuming the "buzz" you are hearing is ground hum. What often happens is that the ground potential between two components is different, causing a ground loop.

What you are trying to do by connecting a wire between the two chassis' is equalize the potential, thus minimizing the loop. You will need to make sure that you are connecting the wire to a grounded point on the chassis of each component. Chassis screws are usually good for this, and there's an easy way to make sure the screw is grounded if you have a meter.

If you have access to an ohmmeter or multimeter, disconnect the component from power and the rest of your gear. Set the meter to read in ohms, then touch one lead to the screw you want to use as a connection point for the wire, and touch the other lead to the outer sleeve of an RCA jack on the back of the component. If the meter zeros out, the screw is grounded. If it doesn't, look for another screw until you've found one that does. The screw is grounded to the chassis, and you can use it to attach the wire.

Your wire should be long enough to connect the grounded points on the two chassis' of course. Since you are trying to equalize ground by giving it a better path, you want the wire to be at least the same gauge as the ground wire in the thickest power cord you are using. So, if your Bryston amp's power cord is 14ga, you want the wire to be at least 14ga. 12ga would be better, but no need to get ridiculously large. Make sure it's insulated wire - bare wire could touch something else and create a bad ground.

Connect the wires as Tvad suggests, and see if the buzz goes away. If it does, you can make it fancy by getting some lugs so that you can more easily connect the components with the ground wire.

If it doesn't go away, and you don't have any other components connected, your buzz is probably not from a ground loop. It's probably from something like flourescent lights or an electric motor on the same electrical circuit. If that's the case, you will have no choice but to move the audio gear onto another circuit if you want to get rid of the noise.


Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try today to get an ohmmeter and test my componets. When using connecting the wire for grounding should I strip the wire or connect it as is.

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