Power amps into surge protector/Conditioner or DIRECT to wall? Final verdict?

I still keep everything plugged in through a surge protector which I care about.

Likewise in my case.

FWIW, I have my entire system protected by an Audience aR2p conditioner/surge suppressor ($695), and with my system at least it has no adverse sonic effects. Even if it did have some slight effects, though, I would probably use it anyway because I don't want my system (including the amp) exposed to any more risk than necessary.

I also use a Wiremold UL210BC power strip ($61) to expand the number of outlets (the Audience only provides two outlets). And I have a Shunyata Venom Defender ($200) plugged into the Wiremold, for additional protection and to minimize coupling of noise between components.

I should add, though, that the two amplifiers I've used with these things operate in class A, and hence draw current that doesn't fluctuate significantly as a function of the dynamics of the music (as it would in the case of class AB and especially class D amps). So I would be hesitant to extrapolate my findings to those kinds of amps.

Good luck. Regards,

-- Al

Well I agree that if something sounds good then do it and if it sounds bad then don’t do it. Having said that. Now we can just mention the ongoing battle some have about the value of power cords, and conditioners versus stock cables. Ok. I mentioned it. I will also mention that I have proved to myself on my system, that Power management and cables do make a positive difference in how my system sounds. So given, that and the logic behind power conditioning, I have all main components and as many non-main components as I can fit, plugged into an AQ Niagara 5000. Those that don’t fit are plugged into a Shunyata MPC. Both of those units are plugged into Shunyata wall outlets. This has made a difference in my system by eliminating noise and producing blacker backgrounds. Perhaps other improvements, as well. So I recommend it. YMMV. 

Adding to the commentary on a general level since I do not own a high end power conditioner. I had a main surge protector installed on to the electric panel of the house. Great $450 investment in my mind. Then my DISH got hit by lightning which was located about 60 feet from the house. The energy surged through the DISH cable and into the house frying everything that came in direct contact with the DISH cables. Lost 3 TVs and the DISH boxes and DVD players conected to those cable inputs. The 2 TVs and DISH boxes that had the cable through a basic surge protector were saved. If I had my stereo components set up for home theater without a basic surge protector it also would have been fried since the surge would have come through the DISH cable and into the audio components. Just saying that a basic surge protector works but not making any commentary on SQ. Also be aware of the satellite connection if you are using your audio system as home theater.

@aberyclark, I believe that blanket advice was good, absent context or other additional factors being mentioned.  Without some knowledge of the equipment, an amplifier could literally ruin and fry a low-end surge protector (picture smoke, I've seen it), even electronically controlled, due to high current draw.   Looking on the back of your equipment might reveal 1300 watts (or 1300 VA rating via inductive, capactive measure) or higher.  That's nearly a hairdryer.  Any other equipment would be fine to plug-in, e.g. the pre-amp, DAC and even TV since those are now minimal draw.  This equipment still might not protect against a lightning strike, but an intermittant surge would be okay.  Direct lightning strikes are very difficult to guard against.  When unsure, just unplug EVERYTHING.  Even in the off state, a lightning strike will fry everything along a path if plugged in.  BTW, the fuses are simply to protect equipment from its own internal failure or as a wide swag protection against external inputs out of specification (e.g. speakers).  Lightning will not care about fuses as they either will not react, or not quickly enough, or it will just arc over.  Grounding is also meant to either protect a user or protect equipment but never 100% guaranteed.  GFCI is also only 99% effective.  All of this is why, when weirder things happen, you can still have electrical fires which is why arc-fault interrupters are now code in addition to GFCI requirements in various locations in a residence.

Whole house surge protectors that are installed in the panel and made by the panel’s manufacturer are a great idea.


However, since the EMP from lightning can be induced directly into wiring, it’s a good idea to put a series mode protector near the devices you most care about. Also, home surge protectors still have activation time. Series mode protection does not.


Last time I had control over it, I had both. A D-Square whole house protector in the panel, and Furman Elite at my stereo.  I have repeatedly found that my system sounds better with the Elite than without it.