preamplifier after preamplifier?

I know what he’s talking about the subs don’t increase enough to match the mains when you turn it up. Then when you match the mains at a higher volume and then turn it down again the subs is to loud.

That’s the problem with higher sensitivity speakers and most subs.. Most subs sold use high excursion speakers, but low sensitivity. 83-85% is not uncommon. One of the main reasons I build my own or make darn sure they match pretty close.

GR servos are 90+ so are all the subs I use. HO44 10" Daytons 90+ @ 8 ohms. Dayton 225-4 is a 8" mid bass driver, I use in Bass columns are 91%.

My mains are 92-3% planars/ribbons..

No matter what I do the bass is correct. Very low volume or very high volume, 300hz and down matches perfect with 300hz and up. Not always easy to do, without getting up and changing the gain by hand on the subs.

The OP likes two remotes.. LOL

Another option is use a preamp with a separate sub out. Mcintosh and Krell both had that option on their HT/Stereo series. The Subs had a separate +12db gain from the mains and Mcintosh had tone control to boot..

I think a Parasound Zpre3 has separate bass and sub volume control. I have one. :-) Just been a while.

Regards

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I would say the OP needs to clarify what he means by ’active’ subwoofers. Does that mean ’powered’ with their own amps inside, or actually simply ’active’ like any other speaker, or, non-passive.

If they are actually ’powered’. I don’t think it would matter how you hooked them up, as the subs internal amp will take the incoming signal and power that sub. Thus, I cannot see how you could change the volume with a preamp or integrated without a dedicated sub out/LFE volume control option.

If they are truly ’active’ subs, then yea, I guess you should/could be able to control their volume/gain separately with a preamp or integrated depending on out options.

@oldhvymec I just recently decommissioned my ZPre3, as I just ’stepped up’ in the world of preamps. Great little pre though, served me wonderfully. It, the Zpre3, has a single sub out, and also a mono out. I think both are fixed. And, no seperate sub volume control on that pre. I think you have to get up to the New 200 series to get that. It also has both R/L fixed and variable control outs.

Preamp? Overkill.

Just insert one of these.to the sub feed.

Then you have RC at the listening position.

I do.

All else is blather including 2 remotes, har har funny.

I've got TV, cable box, BluRay, AVR, HiFi pre amp, DAC, SHD Studio selector, subwoofer level and headphone amp on ONE $8 programmable remote.  Plus a Windows PC remote I don't use anymore is on it.

He is saying his subs are active or powered. A passive sub usually has an onboard XO, but there is Debra, Swarm designs that run 1-4 subs per amp and the amp has the low pass filters and settings. Dayton 1000s are very popular, run one or two.

I use a DCX2496, just for the convenience and ease to add a passive subs or bass column (up to 6 and the controller is daisy chainable 128 nodes). Heck I can even add a rumble filter for TT use or use it as a band pass for my Bass columns. 100-300hz and it has zero effect on GRs OB servo sub DBA I use from 100hz and down.

MY point is simple if all your drivers are matched pretty close including the subs, turning the volume up or down is usually ok with most systems. When you have KHorns. or Corner horns, or La Scala, you'll understand what the OP is probably talking about IF you had most subs.

The speaker efficiency don't jive, can you dig it? 100%+ efficient main speakers with 85% subs don't work. For ME!. They might for you. :-) That would drive me completely bonkers, my wife would go nuttier than she already is, bouncing up and down to match subs. AND she would, trust me.

Maybe I'm to picky. :-)

Regards

@flemmingss - Sure, what you have diagrammed will work. It will give you the independent control of relative level that you want.