What construction/ "lytics? Film? What? Where did you get them?
I ask because there is TON of fake stuff coming out of China, especially on ebay, that is just crap. Rated 100V, fails to 60. I got some others that leaked like a sieve when i tested them.
Its very sad, but you need to get stuff from very reputable sources.
You did not mention the type, rating etc. Not to condescend, but are you familiar with all the rating components, and with all the various types of capacitors and their pluses and minuses? It gets pretty arcane quickly. Get all the data, c’mon back and happy to help.
In almost all speaker crossovers you want film types. Film cannot explode.Electrolytic, which would be smaller, are polarized and cannot work that environment. They would be reverse polarized (sometimes) and almost certainly fail.
I’m convincing myself you did this. Get some expert advice since they are also awful audio caps - very nonlinear, and have a short life. Films (which were likely in there) will last (i kid you not) 100 years.
G
I ask because there is TON of fake stuff coming out of China, especially on ebay, that is just crap. Rated 100V, fails to 60. I got some others that leaked like a sieve when i tested them.
Its very sad, but you need to get stuff from very reputable sources.
You did not mention the type, rating etc. Not to condescend, but are you familiar with all the rating components, and with all the various types of capacitors and their pluses and minuses? It gets pretty arcane quickly. Get all the data, c’mon back and happy to help.
In almost all speaker crossovers you want film types. Film cannot explode.Electrolytic, which would be smaller, are polarized and cannot work that environment. They would be reverse polarized (sometimes) and almost certainly fail.
I’m convincing myself you did this. Get some expert advice since they are also awful audio caps - very nonlinear, and have a short life. Films (which were likely in there) will last (i kid you not) 100 years.
G