Replacement capacitors exploding


I replaced the capacitors in the crossovers in my Klipsch KSM-1 stage monitors.
There is a capacitor that runs parallel to the woofer which had blown in a couple of my dozen stage monitors. They are from the 90s, which is not ancient, but I figured maybe that age is a factor so I swapped them all out.

The replacement capacitors have all of the same numbers printed on them but are a fraction of the physical size, and in just one season almost all of them have blown. I don’t think they were being pushed harder.

Is there a way for me to order capacitors with the same specs printed on them that are also heavier duty in some other way?
jamesheyser
What construction/ "lytics? Film? What? Where did you get them?

I ask because there is TON of fake stuff coming out of China, especially on ebay, that is just crap. Rated 100V, fails to 60. I got some others that leaked like a sieve when i tested them.
Its very sad, but you need to get stuff from very reputable sources.

You did not mention the type, rating etc. Not to condescend, but are you familiar with all the rating components, and with all the various types of capacitors and their pluses and minuses? It gets pretty arcane quickly. Get all the data, c’mon back and happy to help.

In almost all speaker crossovers you want film types. Film cannot explode.Electrolytic, which would be smaller, are polarized and cannot work that environment. They would be reverse polarized (sometimes) and almost certainly fail.

I’m convincing myself you did this. Get some expert advice since they are also awful audio caps - very nonlinear, and have a short life. Films (which were likely in there) will last (i kid you not) 100 years.

G

@itsjustme-  It's comical that you'd say something like, "....  are you familiar with all the rating components, and with all the various types of capacitors and their pluses and minuses? It gets pretty arcane quickly." and then assert, " Electrolytic, which would be smaller, are polarized and cannot work that environment. They would be reverse polarized (sometimes) and almost certainly fail."      fyi: Bipolar electrolytics have been used in countless speaker systems, from the very beginnings of audio.                                    When I was in the electronic repair/speaker reconing business, I lost count of the systems that came through the door, with just one bipolar electrolytic, meant to block lows from the tweeter.     Perhaps another, higher uF value, if there was a midrange driver.      Junk, but still........
Oh, i see he did later clarify that it was in fact a BP/NP. 
Bipolar and Non Polarized are functionally identical.
So if the voltage rating was the same it ought to work.
That said, i would never want a Bipolar electrolytic where i could have a film cap. The film may be much larger, but will be far more linear and better sounding, and more reliable (like within its rating, pretty much forever). In fact i have some large value films, very old, depending on the value you need. I was trying to give them away without success some time back.
oh and to someones point a DC offset might have an impact on a NP cap (if its big enough) but not on a film.
Which brings up an interesting theory on how it failed originally - if in fact you have enough DC (easy to measure) a BP cap, which is designed for AC on a small, ideally zero, DC base (need the spec sheet for more) could have failed.  And the replacement.
Putting in a film would stop that failure but not the DC offset - which is likely  applied to your woofer BTW.