Replacement capacitors exploding


I replaced the capacitors in the crossovers in my Klipsch KSM-1 stage monitors.
There is a capacitor that runs parallel to the woofer which had blown in a couple of my dozen stage monitors. They are from the 90s, which is not ancient, but I figured maybe that age is a factor so I swapped them all out.

The replacement capacitors have all of the same numbers printed on them but are a fraction of the physical size, and in just one season almost all of them have blown. I don’t think they were being pushed harder.

Is there a way for me to order capacitors with the same specs printed on them that are also heavier duty in some other way?
jamesheyser
@itsjustme-  It's comical that you'd say something like, "....  are you familiar with all the rating components, and with all the various types of capacitors and their pluses and minuses? It gets pretty arcane quickly." and then assert, " Electrolytic, which would be smaller, are polarized and cannot work that environment. They would be reverse polarized (sometimes) and almost certainly fail."      fyi: Bipolar electrolytics have been used in countless speaker systems, from the very beginnings of audio.                                    When I was in the electronic repair/speaker reconing business, I lost count of the systems that came through the door, with just one bipolar electrolytic, meant to block lows from the tweeter.     Perhaps another, higher uF value, if there was a midrange driver.      Junk, but still........
Oh, i see he did later clarify that it was in fact a BP/NP. 
Bipolar and Non Polarized are functionally identical.
So if the voltage rating was the same it ought to work.
That said, i would never want a Bipolar electrolytic where i could have a film cap. The film may be much larger, but will be far more linear and better sounding, and more reliable (like within its rating, pretty much forever). In fact i have some large value films, very old, depending on the value you need. I was trying to give them away without success some time back.
oh and to someones point a DC offset might have an impact on a NP cap (if its big enough) but not on a film.
Which brings up an interesting theory on how it failed originally - if in fact you have enough DC (easy to measure) a BP cap, which is designed for AC on a small, ideally zero, DC base (need the spec sheet for more) could have failed.  And the replacement.
Putting in a film would stop that failure but not the DC offset - which is likely  applied to your woofer BTW.