Sakura Systems OTA Cable Kit

Bill, I've been using the OTA as power cords for more than 8 months. The sort of changes in sound was similar to those when I installed OTA as speaker cable and interconnect. That means that all kind of colorations and dirtiness just disappeared (I was using Transparent and Electrocompaniet power cords before). For me, the OTA power cords brought the final word to 47 labs "sound".
Both Humpty and Dumpty are connected through the ONE AC plug into the ONE AC wall socket. All metal parts from the plugs (both IEC and AC plug) are removed (screws, etc) except, of course, metal pins that go into the wall socket. There is no ground connection. The wires are not shielded; it degrades the sound.

Best regards,

Ivo

Thanks a lot for the detailed feedback. It's interesting to note that another friend who has been fabrication his own power cords, also told me that its a good idea to remove the ground and the shielding whenever possible. This friend also mentioned that the cables should not be too tightly bound together or it'll screw up the sound. I've already bought the AC and IEC plugs and I'll try the power cords next week.

Bill

I agree with the post - several posts back - about not twisting the cable. The sonic result is awful.

However, one configuration that sounded very good to me was;
- get a length of plastic rod or tube with good dialectric qualities and good flexibility - usually a foam rod is best
- wrap one conductor around the rod, from end-to-end, circling the rod once every six inches or so.
- do the same with a second conductor but wrap it counter to the first one, so that it is therefore crossing the first one twice every six inches.

I suppose in theory this configuration has lowish capacitance, and lower inductance than letting the cable fall chaotically on the floor (the approved method). Whatever, the result sounds cleaner to me. Certainly, I prefer the physical result too.

Don't ask me where I got the central foam rod - I took it out of the center of some Straightwire speaker cable I didn't mind butchering.

So far I have used three Storatos power cables in my system. Two 20 ft runs direct from 230 Volt AC wall socket to each VAIC SET monobloc and one 6 ft run between a dedicated-digital power strip to a z-systems digital preamp/equalizer.
I will certainly add more Storatos PCs now after hearing this arrangement, since the use of my existing PC cables (all of them NBS Statements) seems more problematic (mechanically, electronically, sonically) than not having them. I am certain that the Storatos cables improved the ability of the z-systems preamp to handle complex frequency- and dynamic-related information in the digital domain, and that it enhanced the transient characteristics, detail and reproduction of frequency extremes (crisper treble, tighter bass) of the VAIC monoblocks. This latter result was surprising since the VAIC monoblocks have some special "challenges" with their power supply and require exteme care when it comes to mains voltage--I will spare you the details. In short, let me just say that I was shocked that Storatos could function as such an excellent power cable for these power-hungry units, fast enough to cover their sudden demands in energy.
Some tips for making up Storatos PCs.
There are lots of metal parts in every stock IEC and PC plug I have examined: mainly screws for the wires, wire guides, and lead systems for + - and ground. These can be a problem if you want to minimize intermediary connections between Storatos and your house mains cables or the hook-up wires to your components transformers.
If you plan on using an AC plug, try to find one with solid copper prongs (German high-end manufacturer "Phonosophie" provides copper tip plugs for the Schucko system). If your house has Schucko outlets (i.e. you live in Europe), you can also use two 47 Labs speaker banana plugs as AC plug prongs and make a direct contact between Storatos and your house mains this way. (BE VERY CAREFUL TO AVOID SHOCK!) This solution is not possible for the American plug system. But you can still always make a direct "pressure" contact between Storatos and your house mains. (This goes without saying, but, TURN OFF YOUR HOUSE MAINS BEFORE YOU DO THIS!)
As for the other side of the Storatos power cable, I have used both light-weight PVC and rubber IEC female plugs (I actually prefer the cheaper PVC variety). One important tip: Do not simply crush the bare Storatos wire under the screw clamp! Instead wrap the bare Storatos around the IEC "U" brackets/guide (leaving enough Storatos insulator stripped away to allow the male IEC prongs to fit fully into the female "U" receptables) so that the male IEC will make direct contact with the Storatos wire. Affix Storatos in the IEC by screwing down on the beginning of the insulated portion, being careful not to break or strain the wire inside.
You may want to leave the halves of the IEC relatively loose until you have the female IEC (with the Storatos bent around the very tip in a "V" formation) fitted over the male IEC prongs of your component. Then you can finally affix the two IEC halves together by fully tightening the screw that holds the two halves together after the IEC is inserted into the component.
As far as defeating the third (center, ground) prong on the ac line-cord by removing it, I will leave a few warnings. This third prong provides a ground connection, which not only helps prevent pickup of RF interference but prevents possible damage to components. This ground return is legally required by Underwriter's Laboratories, a branch of the National Board of Fire Underwriters (in the USA) and by EU regulations (in Europe). Not only can some equipment get damaged by removing the ground, but a fire hazard can be introduced. If your house burns down and the investigation of the remains reveals that you were operating equipment without grounds connection, your insurance company is not liable to pay any of your claims. They will simply look at it as your negligence to provide protection from excessive current risks.
Note that it is no advantage to shield Storatos ac power cables. Note also that lengthening the ac cable to 20 feet, as I did, did not impose excessive power loss. If high-frequency response was lowered by such a long power cable, then that is a matter of no technical concern, and even an advantage: hifi equipment is operated in Germany at a frequency of 60-Hz ac, well below the high-frequency loss (starting from 2,000 Hz) imposed by long lengths of connecting cable.
One final "tip": I think dekay already said this, but if you solder Storatos wire, a small soldering iron is advisable. You will want to use as little solder for your connection as possible. Modify your soldering iron to limit the amount of heat and solder that is applied to the circuit board terminal point. Use a short length of bare Storatos wire wrapped around the tip of the soldering iron, and cut to a tip of approximately 1/4 inch. After prolonged use, the wire will become corroded and pitted, and must then be replaced.

OTA Power Cords. I'll try your method with my next 2 Power Cords. I've already done 5 Power Cords and the improvements brought about by the OTA power cords are pretty amazing. Fantastic value for money compared to what good PCs are going for these days.