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Sell Me Your Women, Your Children, Your Vintage Turntable...

Ok I’m trying to understand the appeal of buying something like an old Garrard 301 or an elderly Technics all trussed up in a shiny new plinth, versus something manufactured in the 21st century by people not wearing clogs.

Surely modern gear has to perform better, dollar for dollar? It isn’t like these restored Garrards are exactly cheap, i was looking at one for almost $11k yesterday on Reverb. The internals looked like something out of a Meccano set.
 I ought to be more in tune with the past, I’m almost 60 and wear bell bottoms, but the style of the older TTs just doesn’t do it for me. Now then, my Dr. Feickert Volare had a look that was hardly futuristic, but that’s about as retro as I’d prefer to go.
All that said... I will buy one of these old buggers if it genuinely elevates performance. 
With $10k available for table and arm, on the new or used market, how would you splash the cash?

Rooze 
128x128rooze
oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
I have an untouched 401 220 50hz. Anybody want a Garrard 401. I’m sure I have 60 hz pully here too (somewhere) if you want to go that direction..

I heard the same thing on the 301 and 401. the 220 50 is better with a converter.. PS is just the latest.. Good reviews though. I’d give it a shot for the money no doubt.. There are US models though, different motor if I remember.. The 220/50hz model is suppose to be the cats meow!!

I’ll stick with Thoren. Any one use the NEW TD124 DD? You want all that speed control. I bet Thoren has it down to a gnat’s a$$. E50 motor though? LONG GONE

15K retail, progress? I’ll bet mine are better and 12-13k less. ;-)

You can air ride a spindle I don’t see how with direct drive, AND easy to do a air seal change...

Regards
mijostyn's avatar
mijostyn
8,570 posts
 
@lewm , no argument from me.

Billwojo, given that an idler drive usually has much more torque than a belt drive reason would have it that you would have to worry about slippage with an idler much more than you would a belt drive. The rubber on every idler wheel I have ever handled is seriously less compliant than the stiffest belt. The Idler wheel is a direct connection between the motor and the platter. As a matter of fact than darn thing is jammed in between the shaft and the platter and held there with a spring loaded mechanism. At least the TD 124 had a belt between the motor and the flywheel/driveshaft.
oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
Actually mijostyn you can modify the platter drive to drag the platter vs PUSH the platter.

That drive boggy on a Thoren or Russco/QRK/Sparta is swapped to an aluminum pully / bronze bushed and super soft silicone rope o-rings.

The platter is easy to dampen and drop balance AFTER the dampening is added.. Flex seal works wonders to quiet the whole thing down.. Chassis and all

Dimple roll the stuff it’s even quieter, but it's not the prettiest, when you dimple roll.. The plinth stabilizes too NO more growing summer to winter.

Regards
pjr801's avatar
pjr801
192 posts
 
 A line almost from the infamous Captain Sensible,Women and Captains first.Modern technology from a turntable specialist.If you buy quality it can hold its resale.https://www.rega.co.uk/products/planar-10.Whatever you buy its still the vinyl that sits on it thats most important.
petey15
26 posts
 
That’s wisdom. I built my collection with vintage and quality new vinyl before I did the 401.

Now I’m hearing my original mono blonde on blonde promo vg++ for the first time really, and that’s just one example.
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