Simple Question. Simple Answer?

I use a small length of Audioquest 22 gauge silver wire to bypass the tweeter fuses on my Maggies. It should probably be a little bigger wire than that, but this has worked fine for me. I don't believe there is a solid core silver wire that is any larger, so anything else will be more than one strand (Kimber's is like 19 AWG, but there are 3 strands). If you are going to bi-amp, then you just need a whole other set of single wire speaker cables to run from the amp anyhow, don't you? Just get another set of speaker cables, maybe?

I meant to say that in the mean time, you could just double-up the spade connectors (of two sets of single wire speaker cables) on the amp end, and connect to the bi-wire terminals on the speaker end. I have an HT Pro-9 biwire cable, that I double-up the spades on the single-wire SPEAKER end; this works fine. Just make sure that none of them try to reach across and touch the opposite pole, or there'll be hell to pay from your amp's point of view!!

Good logic Carl. I will need a second set of long cables anyway "if" the MF amps do come through and if they don't come through I am still set up for bi-wire which is probably the next best thing. I can't do the long interconnect short wire thing due to equipment placement. I messed up one of my 3" bare single wire ends a few hours ago when I was rigging the threads on a stripped post with steel wool. So, I ended up making a set of jumpers anyway out of the Kimber 4VS as opposed to "threading the snake" again. It sounds the same as the single wire to both the LF and HF terminals it's just funkier looking with the little loop. I did it without powering down, it was like playing that old childs game "Operation". If I keep the 4VS for the LF's would the 8TC be a good match for the HF's or what other Kimber would work well, maybe 4TC? I will also be needing a single run of speaker wire for a second system and could just use the 4VS for that and buy some new stuff for the main sytem. I have been curious about the Audioquest CV4 in bulk since I am not an advocate of using any type of connector, but do not know if it would be a step down from the Kimber 4VS. Audio Advisor sells it for $6.00 a foot but I would prefer to pay half that and would need 45 feet. End of babbling, that is all.

dekay, carl is right - if yer gonna need a second set of cables for yer bi-amp set-up, yust get 'em now & double-up both ends at yer amplifier - ewe should notice an improvement. i tried this for one of my electrocompaniet amps when the other was out being updated. doug.

Dekay, oh yeah this sounds all so simple! First, you oughta stay away from sharp objects. ;) I really don't understand why you went through all of these contortions; you should have just left the flat metal jumper on. Nevertheles, I know that the preferred method is to replace the metal with good quality _short_ jumper. It seems that you did that with the 4VS. Geez, why didn't you take the whole damn thing apart and solder wire on the connectors? I'm not familiar with the gauge of or anything else about Kimber 4VS, but the "standard" with what you have and seem to be attempting is to use 8TC for LF and 4TC for HF. That's essentially what I used to do, and I keep those cables for another setup. Then, in your last post you speak of a 45' length..... now wtf is _that_ all about. Anyway, I wonder if you would truly notice any sonic differences by all these different jumper methods. Carl did make some good sense concerning oxidation, but I don't think you need to worry about that. God only knows why you tried the first thing you did; I sure wouldn't do that with my Cardas Golden whatever. [See DK, I'm not thinking too clearly now?] It would just seem that logic dictates that you explain what you really want to accomplish in order to have it so well thought out/planned as you indicated. Bottom line, you did a great job of confusing me! Just watch out for sharp objects, dude!