Simple Question. Simple Answer?

My vote for this method, if you must use it, is to use separate silver wire as the jumper, simply because when the silver on the surface of the conductor oxidizes over time, it will still conduct electricity (Jeffrey Smith of Silversmith cables feels this even sounds "better" than non-oxidized silver...though I've heard no evidence of the affirmative of this, for it to be true for me). Using the same unbroken copper conductor is great on truely ideal terms. But, copper oxide does NOT conduct electricity............................The best method for single wire connection, is to NOT have two sets of (bi-wire) posts in the first place. A terminated bi-wire cable is the simplest, quickest, and best solution for a bi-wire connection, IMO (and is also the consensus of most of the print reviewers in the past few years).

Thanks Carl: I use Deoxit on the bare wire connections though I did not notice any improvement when I cleaned them last week. I do not want to buy internal bi-wires because with a little luck I will be bi-amping pretty soon and they would then not be needed. Any idea if the single run of bare solid core silver wire would work well as a jumper? If so can you recommend a gage for the wire. My amp is rated at 50 watts rms but tests at around 80 watts. Thanks.

I use a small length of Audioquest 22 gauge silver wire to bypass the tweeter fuses on my Maggies. It should probably be a little bigger wire than that, but this has worked fine for me. I don't believe there is a solid core silver wire that is any larger, so anything else will be more than one strand (Kimber's is like 19 AWG, but there are 3 strands). If you are going to bi-amp, then you just need a whole other set of single wire speaker cables to run from the amp anyhow, don't you? Just get another set of speaker cables, maybe?

I meant to say that in the mean time, you could just double-up the spade connectors (of two sets of single wire speaker cables) on the amp end, and connect to the bi-wire terminals on the speaker end. I have an HT Pro-9 biwire cable, that I double-up the spades on the single-wire SPEAKER end; this works fine. Just make sure that none of them try to reach across and touch the opposite pole, or there'll be hell to pay from your amp's point of view!!

Good logic Carl. I will need a second set of long cables anyway "if" the MF amps do come through and if they don't come through I am still set up for bi-wire which is probably the next best thing. I can't do the long interconnect short wire thing due to equipment placement. I messed up one of my 3" bare single wire ends a few hours ago when I was rigging the threads on a stripped post with steel wool. So, I ended up making a set of jumpers anyway out of the Kimber 4VS as opposed to "threading the snake" again. It sounds the same as the single wire to both the LF and HF terminals it's just funkier looking with the little loop. I did it without powering down, it was like playing that old childs game "Operation". If I keep the 4VS for the LF's would the 8TC be a good match for the HF's or what other Kimber would work well, maybe 4TC? I will also be needing a single run of speaker wire for a second system and could just use the 4VS for that and buy some new stuff for the main sytem. I have been curious about the Audioquest CV4 in bulk since I am not an advocate of using any type of connector, but do not know if it would be a step down from the Kimber 4VS. Audio Advisor sells it for $6.00 a foot but I would prefer to pay half that and would need 45 feet. End of babbling, that is all.