Something For The Fuse Guys ...

"....well other than a misunderstanding of how electricity works..."      There are a couple of theories, as to how electricity, "works".    They are both called a, "theory".     To which theory, do you ascribe your perfect, "understanding"?

George, george, george .....

@roberttcan,
Actually, most, if not all of your mentions were brought up in older threads as to why it could explain the efficacy of aftermarket fuses, but they were all shot down as worthless, meaningless, or just silly.

A lot of these aftermarket fuses are based on high rupturing fuses which are made for medical, military, and other high end uses that have been around for many a year.

All it took was some enterprising chaps to apply it to audiophile needs and jack up the price. That's not to say they don't perform better. But they do impact the resultant sound.

Padis fuses go to great lengths to ensure that the end caps are positioned to ensure an even roll on a table, ensuring better and fuller contact with the fuse holder. They even go a step further by omitting any engraving on the sides of the end caps and print the values on the fuse body, ensuring an even fuller and more consistent contact surface. They use better and purer metals as well and cost about $25 apiece, which goes to show that one needs not spend a fortune.

I'll admit that these fuses are overpriced, but what isn't? It's all about what one's willing to pay. I've tried 4-5 different brands and they all sound different and I don't need for anyone to quiz and test me as I've made it this far in life without resorting to fanatical lengths to make sure I'm hearing what I'me hearing. 👍

All the best,
Nonoise

@nonoise

All it took was some enterprising chaps to apply it to audiophile needs and jack up the price.

You forgot...."and apply the appropriate color!"

BTW, I suggested years ago to try orthodontic (i.e., very small) rubber bands around the tops of the fuse holder clips to improve the contact between the fuse and the holder, in conjunction with a bit of ProGold or you favorite contact enhancer. Obviously this rubber band tweak works on only the cradle-type fuse holders not the cylinder holders with the screw-off cap that are often on the rear panel of equipment. I like sand-filled ceramic body fuses which are higher priced than their standard glass counterparts (about $3/fuse!), but if yours are glass try wrapping a bit of teflon tape around the glass for damping. Use orange tape if you wish 😄

Getting back to reality for a sec it wasn’t until relatively recently that some audiophile fuses’ costs soared. The original fuses by HiFi Tuning in Germany and Isoclean in Japan (UL certified, as if audiophiles give a rat’s behind) were all around 50-100 bucks. Even on The Cable Co. website page for fuses, the majority are 20-50 bucks. I am guessing somewhat in saying there are 10 aftermarket fuse companies, most of which are probably wondering where their next meal is coming from. 

Then along came Synergistic and Audio Magic around ten years ago with higher prices. HiFi Tuning swore up and down fuses were not directional but rather burned in properly no matter which way they were inserted initially, but later changed their tune, as it were. Now we know that all,fuses, even run if the mill Busmann and Littelfuse, are directional. Good luck to any fuse company selling any more fuses as it seems there’s a Big Boy in town. Unless I miss my guess a $150 dollar price tag won’t deter very many serious (read rabid) audiophiles. It’s just a hunch. 🤡