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Sources for information and/or advice on dedicated AC lines desired

I have relocated, and the new house will allow me to at long last have dedicated AC power lines in the music listening room. Halleluiah! I’ve seen the topic discussed over the years, and have a general idea of what is needed, but can I get recommendations of sources of information about the details of what the optimum power and wiring system is, and exactly what to have done by a professional electrician (in the event that is necessary) to achieve it? And/or personal advice on wiring and power sources (excluding power conditioners---I mean just raw power. I already have Shunyata and Bybee units for conditioning) required for optimum sound quality? For instance:

- How many separate lines from the main panel to the room? Separate lines for sources vs. amps, analog vs. digital? My system sources are LP, analog tape, digital, and FM radio. Three tube pre-amps, a couple of tube and three SS power amps. And ESL speakers and powered subs also needing AC, of course.

- Amperage advisable for each line? 20 Amps?

- What to look for to determine if the already-installed wire is sufficient? And if it is not, the type and gauge of wire to have installed? 10g Romex?

- Grounding---metal rod into the earth?

- Anything else of concern not listed above.

Thanks for any recommendations of sources of information. Personal recommendations and/or advice also welcomed!

128x128bdp24
bdp24's avatar
bdp24 OP
10,010 posts
 

Great, thanks fellas. Your insights and referrals have given me a good start. So far I have concluded to proceed thusly:

- Verify the availability of empty spaces on the electrical panel (there is no sub-panel; it's just a moderately-sized three bedroom house) in which to install four 20A lines of 10g Romex wire (dgarretson, I'll check into the Cardas), each terminated in a duplex outlet---one for analog sources, one for digital, one for power amps, and a fourth for the remotely-located ESL's and subs). Sufficient? Ghosthouse, you state you had three duplex outputs put on the end of each line; so if I use the already existing outlet wall locations, I can have more than one outlet on each line? That sounds good, because the left and right channel ESL's and subs are of course on opposite sides of the room from each other, therefore obviously needing to be on different outlets (or really long power cords!).

- Alternatively, would the benefit of having a sub panel installed (feeding only the music room) justify the cost to do so?. Does a sub panel provide a good amount of isolation from noise-causing appliances (heater and air-conditioner, washer/dryer, computers) on the main panel?

- No separate ground needed; in fact, not a good idea (or, apparently legal!).

I'm not going to go crazy with this, just basic, like you ghosthouse. I'm becoming more bothered by noise as I get older, plus my system is more transparent than ever. Whart, the only negative in this house is a suspended wood floor; I've been on a concrete slab for years now, which I love. On the other hand, far less seismic activity up here in the NW compared with S. California! The equipment will be located by an exterior wall, the stiffest part of a suspended floor, but I'll get under the house and jam some 4 X 4's between the ground and floorboards.

Thanks for the link Erik (love that spelling---wish my parents had used it instead of a "c"!).

The music room itself already sounds good, with no flutter echo (and I haven't put in my 13 ASC tube traps yet), and it's 15' width will allow me to set up my Tympani T-IV's. I'm stoked!

Ghosthouse, I too thought of checking with my new local high end shops (I already miss Brooks Berdan, Ltd., his son Brian Berdan at Audio Elements, and Randy at Optimal Enchantment) for an electrician recommendation, and paid a visit to Pearl Audio in downtown Portland yesterday morning. Store hours on their website and storefront window state they open at 10:00 AM. I waited until 11:00, when I had to leave. Uh oh, not a good sign.

folkfreak's avatar
folkfreak
1,349 posts
 
I’m also in Portland OR and just gone through build out of my room (details in my system description)

i think you have most of it but please consider one line for each channel so you can support monoblocks later on. Personally I still use my SR Powecells so only actually use two of my five lines but never hurts to have them.

I also installed a Torus WM 75 transformer to isolate the system from the rest of the house, not cheap but very effective. There are also other tricks like using an Environmental Protections EP 2775 ground filter to help isolate from ground noise, again details in my system description

unfortunately the hi if dealers her in Portland are not what you are used to in LA, I still do most of my business with the folks I used to work with, but Jonathan Tinn at Chambers Audio has some excellent lines and very good service. Send me a private email if you’d like to check out the system some time and see how I approached the issues you have. I may also be able to recommend an electrician you could use
whart's avatar
whart
3,086 posts
 
BDP- I don't think a separate subpanel in itself offers better isolation, but where it is attached to the service line relative to the other breakers might- you need someone with better electrical chops than me;
Contrary to my earlier advice about a million separate dedicated lines, there are benefits to keeping (at least the analog stuff) on the same line if possible, to minimize the differences in grounding potential among different dedicated lines; downside, apart from current demand issues, is running a separate "distribution box" ( high quality "power strip" ala the UK style of wiring hi-fi) power with at least one more, and several longer "audiophile power cords" that, together, can be pricier than electrician wired in wall dedicated lines;
the isolation transformer is a great way to minimize electrical system crap, particularly in combination with a dedicated line; these transformers hum so where you locate it relative to your listening area is important.
good luck, have fun- these kinds of projects are pretty satisfying in the sense that you accomplish something without just buying "gear" and the improvements are well worth the investment in my estimation, even on a relatively modest level (The electrical work I had done in NY wasn't that involved or costly, and I was dealing with finished walls, not open framing in an area of the house most distant from the basement/service entrance). 
ghosthouse's avatar
ghosthouse
4,319 posts
 
Hey BDP...again, good luck to you. You certainly got a good number of tips from the members to at least consider.

I wanted to mention PorterPorts as another option for your outlets. I can’t swear these so-called "audiophile" grade outlets make a big difference to the sound vs a cheaper builder’s grade outlet (I never did any A/B testing)...but, neither the Cabledynes or the PorterPorts (i.e., cryo’d outlets from Albert Porter, A’gon member) are that expensive and I’m not an extravagant spender. Anyway, might as well go for something like them given this opportunity you have.

For me, in the lessons learned category...
I have a very modest APC H-10 power conditioner on the middle line. Sources (e.g., CDP, DAC, TT & phono-pre) are plugged into this. Amp (power & pre) go direct to wall outlet(s). During winter, when the heat pump kicks on - even though it’s on the main panel and not on the sub panel for the dedicated lines - there’s enough (momentary voltage drop from the furnace power draw?) that I can hear the APC click on and respond as it is designed to do. I don’t hear any change in the music; the APC intervention is VERY brief...but this is why, if we had the budget and time, I would love to have installed another line from the street to a completely separate panel (not just a sub panel) to power the audio gear. Maybe Whart’s & Folkfreak’s transformer suggestions would fix this without a 2nd line going to the house. Dunno.

lak's avatar
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lak
4,697 posts
 
If you wanted to spend some big dollars on outlets I'd recommend the following:
Furutech GTX-D Rhodium (R)
Or the new Synergistic Research BLACK UEF Duplex receptacle.
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