Subwoofer. Great one song. Not so great the next song.


I'm not a subwoofer guy. Played around with one in my primary system (Aerial Acoustics 7Bs, Proceed 250w amp, AR LS-16 tube preamp). Big B&W powered, not sure which. Didn't think it added anything. Ditched it.


Recently got a pair of Aerial Acoustic 6Ts for my secondary system. They have no place to be but right up against the wall. Maybe a foot out. Can't decide if they sound better with a sock in the rear facing bass port or not. Its a wash. Overall they sound pretty dang good though.


But, I played around with a JL Audio e110 sub. Pretty nice unit. Put the socks back in the bass ports.

On some songs the combo with the sub just sounds stellar. On others it sounds boomy and thumpy. My audiophile hang up is taught, clear, concise bass. I do not like boomy and thumpy at all. I can get up and turn the output on the sub down a little and it sounds okay again.

But I don't want to do that every time a different song comes on.

Now, on this sub you can change crossover frequencies, phase and also a polarity switch. I don't know _anything_ about that stuff. I've got it set on the more or less default settings in the manual. The only thing I've messed with is the polarity switch and for reasons I don't understand it sounds better on 180 than 0. I have not messed with the crossover frequency and phase dials.

Is there any chance that changing any of those settings would allow me to reach a sweet spot where I don't have to change settings on the sub frequently? I may or may not keep this sub. If I can't find that sweet spot I'll let it go as alone the 6Ts don't sound bad by any measure.

Thanks,
George


n80
Holly cow,

Turn the FEQ, all the way down, Counter Clock Wise.

Turn the Vol, to the 12  position, 1/2 way

Turn the Phase switch to 0. ZERO

Flip the phase switch to "0" phase, not 180.

Play the Boom songs

Turn the FEQ up until the boom starts, then turn it down just a bit.

Your close.. It's hard to get perfect, and you won't.
Place the sub closer to you, it will work better for YOU?

Why? Because it will.. The further from you, the more difficult the placement,  within 6-8 feet, between the mains, and forward of the mains, or closer to the seated position.

It's VERY simple, turn three knobs, one switch, then turn one Clock Wise, and back off a tad... Sound easy to me... Enjoy...

Regards

All these things that are so hard with a sub become trivially easy with four subs.
Thanks guys.

@erik_squires Great article.

oldhvymec, thanks, I will do those things except I can't move the sub from where it is which is in a corner to the right of the right speaker. And my listening position is too far away but also not an option to change.

And that is another issue. The system was meant for casual listening throughout the whole room, not just me alone in one place. That alone is a challenge.

I think with my room limitations a sub is probably not going to work out. But, I've got some time so I'll continue to play with it.
I have found it is a matter of not over-doing it. I am not a fan of ports, especially rear ports, so I advise keeping them stuffed. (my experience below)

Main System, 15" Woofers, Horns, I am familiar with full range and Stereo Bass.
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Both subs and surrounds should not be obvious, (except designed directional action, helicopter fly over, crowd noise ...).

Surrounds: not obvious, but they should surprise you how they were involved when you turn them off, the sound simply collapses to the front.

Subs, location not detectable, their ’fullness’ disappears when off.

1st, successful adjustable crossover
2nd successful adjustable volume.

i.e. Home Theater, Velodyne 10" 1,000 watt self powered sub. Jurassic Park Dinosaur Stomp, oh yeah. But otherwise never muddy.

i.e. Office System, B&W bookshelf speakers and Velodyne 12" self powered sub, doing what the 6-1/2" woofers shouldn't even try do to.
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Consider where eq to separate bass, or separate highs?

Home theater, full frequency to front mains, then:

center to center, surround to surround, sub line out to sub line in, which filters highs,

This keeps full range to your front mains, very important when using ’Direct’ or 2 Channel, you still get the bass to your front mains. Cable ’invents’ strange mixes, I often find 2 channel sounds better.

Office, small 6-1/2" mains: amp speaker wires to sub, sub filters bass out via adjustable crossover, then speaker wires to bookshelf. Then the bookshelf do not try to make bass they cannot do without distortion and poor volume.

Rear Vents Mistake

I inherited a big Fisher Console with horn tweeters, horn mid, and 15" woofers,

So, lets build separate enclosures for them. I duplicated eveything, simply relocated the front panel with drivers, crossovers, insulation into the new enclosures. Wonderful.

Then, being a young whiz kid idiot, I thought, I’ll make larger enclosures, more cubic feet, and a rear vent, get even more out of those monster 37lb woofers.

Engineers at Electrovoice (before mergers ... were still in NYC and Bucanan, Mich), My AV Consultant (I designed a lot of Conference Centers, AV rooms) My Furniture Manufacturer, we all got enthusiastic.

Whoopee, for a while, then sensibly stuffed up the ports.
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Location.

My very heavy mains are on 3 wheels (never wobble, more weight per wheel), and perform pulled out of corners, and away from side walls, toed up slightly. toed in for wide enough center imaging for two listeners. They roll into the corners when I expand the dining room table for holidays.

I mention it, because, if the front mains are heavy enough, that can solve situations like you mentioned, limited choices of location. Solid, spikes, 3 wheels, I’ve done them all.
One possibility is that, because you haven’t done any PEQ, some frequencies are being reproduced at the (mostly) correct SPL while others are too loud and overwhelming. The e110 doesn’t have any PEQ functionality built-in so you’d need to add an outboard PEQ device.
Good advice.
Also, in order to optimize the subwoofer integration, you should be connecting your pre-amp to the e110 inputs, and the e110 outputs to your speaker amp, which is then connected to the speakers. This ensures the e110’s crossover is applied.
There is no crossover in the e110, so there's really no point to doing this.
Turn the FEQ, all the way down, Counter Clock Wise.
What's an FEQ?

My suggestions are to consider a preamp with bass management, an external crossover and/or an external DSP for equalizing the sub in your room.