Synergistic Red Fuse ...

Thanks Al, as always. Looks like a 4 amp fuse is the correct value but part of the reason for my question was based on the reports from the users  - not Magnepan owners in particular, that recommended a fuse with a (slightly) higher amp rating than OEM to minimize the likelihood of prematured blowing of the fuse. That precaution might only apply to "powered" components and not apply to the Magnepan speakers thus the question.

@Kalali- One of the most popular, simple tweaks, for Maggies, is(or, at least, was) bypassing the fuse altogether. Easy to do, by unscrewing the fuse/input plate and soldering both wires, going to the fuse holder, to one post. Of course, then you don’t want to get crazy with your volume control, or clip an under-powered amp, into your MMGs. If you’re not nuts with your listening, you should never have a problem. That’s also a good time to replace Magnepan’s silly connectors, with high-end five-ways. I’ve owned Maggies for a couple decades(two pair, currently), listen at high SPLs(with more than adequate power) and have never hurt a tweeter. I believe our(those of us that use them) boutique fuses are designed more with AC main and B+/power rail supplies in mind. I’m certain there are those that use them in speaker systems, but I’ve never heard any appreciable difference in that app, unlike the improvements they make in all my other equipment. Like they say though- YMMV. If you’re determined, this is the one you’d want: (https://highend-electronics.com/products/sr-red-quantum-fuses?variant=819916563) Further notes, for your consideration: (https://www.thecableco.com/newsletter-detail.aspx?iid=5924#articles_3) btw: I’ve always bypassed the resistor/attenuation circuit too. A piece of steel in the tweeter circuit, just doesn’t make sense to me. If you don’t want to follow that lead, at least replace their steel with silver or copper. The Cable Company shows a couple options, on the page linked to above.

Rodman, thanks a lot for your input. Much appreciated. I'm expecting to receive the speakers this weekend and am struggling to try to control myself and use them in stock form at least a couple of weeks before I jump into the upgrades. Both the fuses and the Cardas jumpers you mentioned were exactly what I had in mind when (not if) I go the upgrade route. Fortunately the speakers already have the Sound Anchor stands so the upgrade path is slightly shorter. Thanks again.

Your welcome, Kalali. Good procedure, getting accustomed to them(or any other component) stock, before tweaking. If you can solder: bypassing the attenuator circuit just takes one connection per side, eliminates the two lousy screw terminals, is easily reversed and will save you some money.  Sound Anchors and Mye Sound stands are both good investments.    I welded up my own stands, with adjustable spikes.   Less wobble=better focus.  Happy listening!

Use a N52 magnet in place of the fuse or the jumper..$ 2.49  American. I use them everywhere..enter at your own risk. Tom