Synergistic Red Fuse ...


I installed a SR RED Quantum fuse in my ARC REF-3 preamp a few days ago, replacing an older high end fuse. Uhh ... for a hundred bucks, this little baby is well worth the cost. There was an immediate improvement upon installation, but now that its broken in (yes, no kidding), its quite remarkable. A tightening of the focus, a more solid image, and most important of all for my tastes, a deeper appreciation for the organic sound of the instruments. Damn! ... cellos sound great! Much improved attack on pianos. More humanistic on vocals. Bowed bass goes down forever. Next move? .... I'm doing the entire system with these fuses. One at a time though just to gauge the improvement in each piece of equipment. The REF-75se comes next. I'll report the results as the progression takes place. Stay tuned ...

Any comments from anyone else who has tried these fuses?
128x128oregonpapa
@Kalali- One of the most popular, simple tweaks, for Maggies, is(or, at least, was) bypassing the fuse altogether. Easy to do, by unscrewing the fuse/input plate and soldering both wires, going to the fuse holder, to one post. Of course, then you don’t want to get crazy with your volume control, or clip an under-powered amp, into your MMGs. If you’re not nuts with your listening, you should never have a problem. That’s also a good time to replace Magnepan’s silly connectors, with high-end five-ways. I’ve owned Maggies for a couple decades(two pair, currently), listen at high SPLs(with more than adequate power) and have never hurt a tweeter. I believe our(those of us that use them) boutique fuses are designed more with AC main and B+/power rail supplies in mind. I’m certain there are those that use them in speaker systems, but I’ve never heard any appreciable difference in that app, unlike the improvements they make in all my other equipment. Like they say though- YMMV. If you’re determined, this is the one you’d want: (https://highend-electronics.com/products/sr-red-quantum-fuses?variant=819916563) Further notes, for your consideration: (https://www.thecableco.com/newsletter-detail.aspx?iid=5924#articles_3) btw: I’ve always bypassed the resistor/attenuation circuit too. A piece of steel in the tweeter circuit, just doesn’t make sense to me. If you don’t want to follow that lead, at least replace their steel with silver or copper. The Cable Company shows a couple options, on the page linked to above.
Rodman, thanks a lot for your input. Much appreciated. I'm expecting to receive the speakers this weekend and am struggling to try to control myself and use them in stock form at least a couple of weeks before I jump into the upgrades. Both the fuses and the Cardas jumpers you mentioned were exactly what I had in mind when (not if) I go the upgrade route. Fortunately the speakers already have the Sound Anchor stands so the upgrade path is slightly shorter. Thanks again.
Your welcome, Kalali. Good procedure, getting accustomed to them(or any other component) stock, before tweaking. If you can solder: bypassing the attenuator circuit just takes one connection per side, eliminates the two lousy screw terminals, is easily reversed and will save you some money.  Sound Anchors and Mye Sound stands are both good investments.    I welded up my own stands, with adjustable spikes.   Less wobble=better focus.  Happy listening!
Use a N52 magnet in place of the fuse or the jumper..$ 2.49  American. I use them everywhere..enter at your own risk. Tom