Just for fun, I once wrote a parody template of an audio review that had a fill in the blank feature along with an assortment of standard tropes. I advanced the draft and on reflection, decided not to post it--it was just too snarky.
I don't read the audio mags much if at all anymore, though I will occasionally see a review online, or mentioned in a chat forum.
To me, the task of the reviewer is almost impossible. In a relatively short time (if possible) to evaluate a component using other equipment that might not be the best match (so, borrowing other gear may be required), and a write up based on the reviewer's own sonic preferences. To me, the best reviews were comparative, pointing out strengths and weaknesses differentiating the components under evaluation.