Von scheikert VR4jr what are you using ?


I just got a new pair and I am wondering what amp would be best. I have a Cary SLP-98F1 as a pre and currently using a V12 to drive them. I have a BAT VK-200 as a spare and I am going to hook it up this week end, to see how it sounds with the SLP.
I originally heard the VR's driven by NuForce 9.02 mono's, they sounded fantastic. They were in a treated HT room, which is totally diferent than my space. Right now before break in they sound good but I get don't get close to the sound I heard in the demo room(of coarse I never do). I can only come out about 1 1/2 ft. from the front wall, so I'm pretty sure that is where I lose a lot of the spatiousness.
I am curious to see what other VR4jr owners are using and what they have heard elsewhere.
jdodmead
Mfsoa

My point exactly! electricity follows the path of least resistance. ALWAYS. A network I think, has more resistance than brass plates. using the plates should, if they are connected internally via a net, would short out, or by pass the net. They make no sense if they are necessary to connect the bottom drivers... or anything else for that matter. given there is internal wiring....

Additionally, given a network can employ caps, they allow for directional flow of electricity... The plates on both posts make the appearance of one connecting spot. Either top or bottom... either should suffice, electrically. BUT an internal net would be defeated using the plates, were they wired internally, and connected to the associated posts as well. It's one or the other. both shouldn't work, irrispective of the other.. and surely not together... JR's are confusing.... but I do know something about electricity. Electricity does the same thinhg everywhere, with everything... even if it's made in China.

Albert's a pretty smart guy... I doubt he'd add posts that serve no purpose and intimate a connection to a driver, as is the industry norm. It's counterproductive, and 'un-intuitive'.
I agree that the post placement is not well designed. The better solution would have been a single pair of woofer posts placed high enough on the woffer cabinet that the standard bi-wire cables would span the to sets of posts. It would also eliminate the issue of having one pair of wires that have more slack than the other pair when bi-amping.

I have been loving the results with tubes on top and SS on the bass cabinets. I have AP silver ovals on top and oval 9 below. It's a been a very rewarding configuratoin for me.
Shame that you don't have a larger room, as they really open up when moved out from the wall. I suggest that you use some type of sound absoption panel behind each speaker against the wall. Sick some large couch pillows there & it will give you an idea. You might also try to pull them out an extra 1.5-2 ft and toe them in more, either of these could make a nice change to overall sound. I've had them for more than a year and can suggest that you load with 25-35lb of lead shot in each,biwire, & use the spikes.Mine have sounded excellent with both Wolcott p220 & Van Alstine 550exr. Good luck,they are great speakers.
the results are in... the idea about the upper bass driver not functioning off the BM's upper post is accurate. I'm still in awe... I am sure big enough to admit a mistake... I need to now, and I apologize for any issues I may have caused.

Who'd have thunk it?. Although what I posted above previously, is/was in fact the info given me and what I didd... I can only think that I must have left the sub on during the testing... but it's TRUE. THERE IS NO SOUND TO BE HAD FROM THE TOP DRIVER IN THE BASS CABINET BY USING THE 'INTUITIVE' CONNECTIONS (or upper posts on the cab), AND I'M SURE SOMEONE HAD A GOOD LAUGH ABOUT THAT. I know I did... shortly after the discovery. Amazing!

...and thanks for telling me. The good news is I used another pair of those gizmos to make the bi-wires into standard ones and hooked the Sig 10's solely to the TM. after some short time of stridently etched sound, (further proof the driver was not presenting a load), as the second leg of the biwire ran in some more. The sound became quite interesting. I am more than pleased with the TM's performance now... BUT there is a disparity down below. Although improving, the bass no longer is quite at the level of performance as the top & mid. I'm gonna attribute that to using a step down in speaker cables from the Sig 10's. So in fact I do have a pair of wires to put on the block so to speak... anyone got a pair of 15 - 16 ft. Sig 10 X2 actives for sale? Geeezzzz.

I do appreciate the input, however. I do apologize again for my errant info. It was not meant to mislead or cause harm in any way shape or form. Just shows to go ya, even at higher levels some folks are occasionally a bit off the mark.

BTW... the plates are still off. I've hooked to the lowest posts only with the Alpha Quad actives.
I'm using a SF Line 1 tube pre and H20 S250 Sig. ICE amp. I've been content with the sound ever since I bought them over a year ago. I'm also constrained to a short distance from the back wall. I've decided to hold off on dropping a bunch of $$ into the system until I can get everything into a dedicated room or at least an area where I have more flexibility. Hopefully soon. I've become convinced that once you get to the type of system that most of us have, the room and setup is just as important as anything else.
I heard them at my dealer's with a big pair of Classe mono's. The sound was crystal clear, but as I remember it not much warmth. A good deal of that impression came from what I was switching from and the type of music (rock) I was playing. It revealed all the flaws, sibilance, etc in the recordings that I never heard before.
I'm a very happy owner and feel I can build around these speakers for quite a long time. Hopefully I'll be off this silly merry-go-round by that time.