What speaker cable made a major difference in the sound quality of your speakers??

@toddverrone .. the whole project didn’t take much time at all. I used 16 gauge wire and 14 gauge jacketing. The wire threaded easily enough and just needed to be guided deliberately. Here’s a link to my blog post about the build where you’ll find a couple of links to exactly what & where I purchased the materials I used:

https://melvinsfoolishthings.blog/2017/03/20/loudspeaker-cables/

Aauugh, I just had to read this thread. I have a pair of Morrow SP-7's on the way and now I read all these glowing reviews of the Clear Day's. I moved up to the 7's from the 5's on a trade-up deal. I think I'll let the Morrow's burn in good then pick up a pair of Clear Day's and sell which ever I don't like. The good thing about cables in this price range is that it's actually affordable to try different brands. Anyone care to comment on the SP-7's?

Buy fine round dead soft silver (not sterling) from riogrande.com, stick it in a thick untreated cotton rope, add TechFlex on outside and don't use termination for speakers or amps. Bigger is better! Don't go thinner than 12 gauge - 10 or 8 gauge is better - depending on budget. Make sure you're buckled up, when you turn on your system ;-)
Decibell

Clear Day is more in your face than SP7, imagine most listening to rop/rock
would prefer Clear day, someone listening to a symphony the SP-7 .
Of course SP-7  costs much more .

All round the AudioArt SC-5e is better than either , at a few bucks more than Clear Day .

None. I use ESL's, which require a series resistor for tuning the step-up transformer. So I removed the resistor and inserted Nichrome resistance wire, of the same total resistance, between the mono blocks and the speakers.

Essentially, I substituted the highest class resistor for a second class resistor, and have no 'cables' whatsoever. These non-existant cables are very transparent, I have to say.