Which subwoofer should I get?

@mwsl 

One of the things I’m concerned about is having the properly sized sub for my room, which is 19’x17’x9’ (peaked roof design)

My room is very similar with a 13' peak and a 12' dining room open to the LR where my system resides. I have 2 Rel S510 clones. which are Sumiko. They  were the importer for Rel for many years until Rel changed business model. They have the same specs as the S 5 rel. They fill my room easily.

I'm finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don't understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn't gone down this road yet.

Maybe they believe in the beauty of simplicity and eliminating possible interference. I'd rather adjust the sub while right next to the main speakers. Its easier to pick up all the subtleties while integrating the subs.

As for sealed vs ported, I think it comes down to design. One well designed of either design  will be better than the poorer or the other design. Good luck with your search.

I run two SVS SB4000 in my HT room and know the sound very well. I don’t think they would be ideal in a 2 Chanel setup. I don’t think they will have enough speed and you will wind up with bass overhang that muddies the two Chanel system. I think for your usage I would go for the REL. 

Also, as soon as possible start saving for a matching second sub. If you truly want them to disappear that is the way to go. Good luck and cheers. 

One very important point that should be considered IMO. The connection to a 'high level input' (Rel and Paul McGowen suggest this also).

This connection feeds the subwoofer the exact same dynamic level imparted from your amp. A punchy amp characteristic will be passed on to the sub. If you take the signal straight from your pre-amp your sub won't recieve the same dynamics that your speakers will recieve from the amp.

My experience has been the dynamic punch was considerably increased using high level input directly from the amp. BTW...this does NOT put any additional load on your amp. The subs plate amp carries the load.

Hope this helps!

I’m finding myself drawn to subs with app control. I don’t understand why REL (with their great reputation and significant pricing) hasn’t gone down this road yet.

my guess would be that, REL subs set ups are such an ease, the use of an APP would be frivolous.

Brian Ding---designer/owner of Rythmik Audio---recommends low level hookups over high level, but offers a couple of plate amps which include high level binding posts for those who want it.

I know the argument regarding feeding your main speakers and subs the same signal (from your power amp), but I consider that argument flawed. If the power amp were "perfect" (a straight wire with gain), there would be no difference between the output of your pre amp and your power amp (except in gain, watts, voltage, current, etc.). Assuming for the sake of argument that no power amp is perfect, the high level argument is therefore to add the same distortion (from the power amp) to the sub as your main speakers receive.

Let’s use a tube amp as our case study. Tube amps have long been considered slightly inferior to solid state when it comes to the reproduction of low frequencies (the Atma-Sphere OTL amps being one notable exception. A lot of the problems in tube amps when it comes to bass is the sound of output transformers, which OTL’s and most solid state amps are free of).

So with a high level hook up, you are adding the worst aspect of a tube amp to the one frequency band subs are made to reproduce: low frequencies. As the amp (presumably, and hopefully) does not suffer from that ailment in mid and high frequencies, your subs may very well be receiving a signal more different from what the speakers receive than if you were using low level connections.

At any rate, with a plate offering both high and low hookups, you are free to try both, and use the one you prefer. Rythmik Audio offers a few different amps that include both high and low level hookups. And all the Rythmik amps include a very valuable control: a continuously-variable 0-180 degree phase control, for time aligning your sub(s) and speakers. Most subs offer instead a simple 0/180 degree switch, which is of very limited value. A continuously-variable phase control allows you to find the best location in the room for the sub (in terms of bass nodes), and to then use the phase control to electronically "move" the sub (in the time domain. Rythmik labels the control Phase/Delay. Delay only, as it is obviously impossible to move the sub ahead in time.) so as to be in phase with your speakers.