ZYX too light for my Shroeder arm. Help

I have a Schroeder Model two arm, but even with the counterweight all the way in and the cartridge moved all the way to the end, I still cant get the tracking force to 1.8grams.

What to do? Add mass tot he cartridge/tonearm. How should i do it? Thanks for any advice.
Sounds like you need to add the silver base to the cart.
Call Mehran at Sorasound.com. He will help you fix the problem.
Hi Petug,

1. You didn't mention which ZYX you have, but if it doesn't have the optional SB or GB weight then you've got the wrong cartridge for that tonearm. An unweighted ZYX will never perform well on a Schroeder Model Two.

2. Schroeder offers a heavier mounting plate for cartridges that need extra mass. Assuming you have (or will switch to) a ZYX with the SB or GB weight, order the Schroeder weight from your dealer or from Frank directly. That will notably improve your bass response and overall dynamics.

Unfortunately, the silver base cannot be added by the owner. It is permanently installed by Nakatsuka-san during assembly of the cartridge.


P.S. For fun, I've tried using external headshell weights with a ZYX. Bad idea. The sound, while weightier, went smeared and murky. It lost that astonishing clarity that makes a ZYX a ZYX.
Frank makes a brass mounting plate for the No.2 which should fit better with the ZYX. The ZYX Bloom R50 I had had a really low compliance and needed a real heavy arm.
I have the R50 Bloom, are the other models in the zyx line more suitable to the shroeder?
My ZYX R-1000 Airy S balanced fine on the Graham tonearm but I wanted to add a bit weight to emulate the silver base. Solution? Use stainless steel screw and nut. I used 3 nuts with each screw to maximize the weight. The extra weights does make it sound cleaner and tighter.
Please take Doug's comments in light of his experimentation with non-Schroeders.

You will always have a "shim" with a Shroeder (a.k.a. cartridge carrier). Give this reality, you have the opportunity to tune the mass of your arm in two ways: (1) make a thicker one up out of aluminum (2) get the brass one through your dealer.

The brass adds about 5 grams (bumping the mass from about 2.6 to 7.6 g).

Now, with brass you're changing the interface between cartridge and tonearm. When you change materials and this is always a wild card. For this reason, I'd try both a thicker piece of aluminum (try a piece 3 times your current thickness) as well as the brass.

You'll likely prefer one over the other, and remember that this is not a universal judgment but rather a preference you'll have with your ZYX.

Making up your own thicker carrier isn't rocket science. The pivot hole is a 2.5mm x .7mm tapped hole, and the two cartridge holes aren't threaded.

Your tool set consists of a hack saw, a mill file, a drill along with a bit/tap set. Assuming you have most of the above, the tap/drill bit would set you back a whole $5.00.

Thom @ Galiber
Thanks Thom for the info.

I purchased the arm second hand in Australia, and as far as I know there is no distributor in Australia. Buying the Brass carrier seems to be the best option. I dont want to ruin the workmanship of the arm with my awful handiwork. Could you supply me with a carrier?

Also Thom, could you help me with the antiskate on my arm(model 2). When i turn the dail for the antiskate, instead of the thread being twisted, it just moves the VTA up or down.

I have the R50 Bloom, are the other models in the zyx line more suitable to the shroeder?

I had a Bloom for a short while and measured a very high resonance frequency (13-14Hz) on a medium weight Rega arm. The compliance of the Bloom seems to be therefore much lower than the other Zyx cartridges; in fact it had a much lower compliance than the Denon DL103R. This may be the result of the very different cantilever than on the higher end ZYX. Adding mass to the arm would be a good idea. Of course Thom's suggestions are excellent as well to play with different thickness of Aluminum.
Zyx also produces a product called "The Silent Metal". The Brochure says:
The silent metal works to prevent the occurrence of the reflected vibration on the headshell surface by its special material, shape and the thickness. Thereby the real time domain that directly concerns to the sound quality of the cartridge, is never damaged at all.

The silent metal goes between the cartridge and the headshell. It comes in two versions-

SM-R: net weight 1.5 grams( for rs-10, rs-20, rs-30 and
SM-T: net weight 1.7 grams ( for RS-02 series, R100-02 series, R-100F, R-1000 and R-100 airy.)

This was what I used to add weight to my Zyx bloom when I had the same problem before with my SME arm. I'm not sure if this would be enough weight for your arm but for me it was enough and it did provide some sonic benefits.
Thanks all for your input.

Just purchased a 1.5 gram plate for the Zyx from a dealer. it goes between the Zyx and the headshell. Cost me $25aud
If that does not work, try contacting Frank Schroder directly for the brass cart carrier.
Hi Petng,

I don't have the time to visit forum on a daily basis these days and didn't realize that you asked the same question (about anti-skate) over here as well as in a private e-mail to me. I might as well paste my private answer to you here, where it might help someone else.

Your description above is one of (likely) really "wound up" the thread into knots. You want to return to neutral (no twists) so you can start over.

I assume you know the difference between independently raising/lowering the magnet spacing (use the Allen key in the hole to keep the set screw from rotating while spinning the knob), and adjusting anti-skate (don't use the Allen key, and merely spin the knob).

Reduce the spacing so that the magnets touch and put a bit of slack in t he thread. Then slowly rotate the anti-skate knob (probably clockwise, but try both directions).

View the thread through a magnifying glass. You're trying to verify that you've returned to a neutral position (no twists). You should be able to see the fibers to verify that you've completely untwisted the thread.

From this point, use about 1.5 counter-clockwise turns as your starting point for anti-skate.

Thom @ Galibier