ZYX too light for my Shroeder arm. Help

I have the R50 Bloom, are the other models in the zyx line more suitable to the shroeder?

I had a Bloom for a short while and measured a very high resonance frequency (13-14Hz) on a medium weight Rega arm. The compliance of the Bloom seems to be therefore much lower than the other Zyx cartridges; in fact it had a much lower compliance than the Denon DL103R. This may be the result of the very different cantilever than on the higher end ZYX. Adding mass to the arm would be a good idea. Of course Thom's suggestions are excellent as well to play with different thickness of Aluminum.

Zyx also produces a product called "The Silent Metal". The Brochure says:
The silent metal works to prevent the occurrence of the reflected vibration on the headshell surface by its special material, shape and the thickness. Thereby the real time domain that directly concerns to the sound quality of the cartridge, is never damaged at all.

The silent metal goes between the cartridge and the headshell. It comes in two versions-

SM-R: net weight 1.5 grams( for rs-10, rs-20, rs-30 and
r-100)
SM-T: net weight 1.7 grams ( for RS-02 series, R100-02 series, R-100F, R-1000 and R-100 airy.)

This was what I used to add weight to my Zyx bloom when I had the same problem before with my SME arm. I'm not sure if this would be enough weight for your arm but for me it was enough and it did provide some sonic benefits.

Thanks all for your input.

Just purchased a 1.5 gram plate for the Zyx from a dealer. it goes between the Zyx and the headshell. Cost me $25aud

If that does not work, try contacting Frank Schroder directly for the brass cart carrier.

Hi Petng,

I don't have the time to visit forum on a daily basis these days and didn't realize that you asked the same question (about anti-skate) over here as well as in a private e-mail to me. I might as well paste my private answer to you here, where it might help someone else.

Your description above is one of (likely) really "wound up" the thread into knots. You want to return to neutral (no twists) so you can start over.

I assume you know the difference between independently raising/lowering the magnet spacing (use the Allen key in the hole to keep the set screw from rotating while spinning the knob), and adjusting anti-skate (don't use the Allen key, and merely spin the knob).

Reduce the spacing so that the magnets touch and put a bit of slack in t he thread. Then slowly rotate the anti-skate knob (probably clockwise, but try both directions).

View the thread through a magnifying glass. You're trying to verify that you've returned to a neutral position (no twists). You should be able to see the fibers to verify that you've completely untwisted the thread.

From this point, use about 1.5 counter-clockwise turns as your starting point for anti-skate.

Cheers,
Thom @ Galibier