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Hey Electricians - Please help

First I would like to admit I am very weak in understanding the terminology or the science of electricity, but I am learning some things, so let's just leave it at that.

My question is this. My current system is hooked up to a Richard Gray's Power Company RGPC 400Pro. I am also using a PS Audio Humbuster to kill the DC noise in my lines (this caused torroidal hum in my amp). Everything in my system is dead quiet, so I am very pleased. However, when I turn the overhead light on and off I can hear a click through my speakers when everything is turned on. The light is a florescent light, btw. I know that the light and the consent that my gear is running through are on separate circuits, because I recently upgraded my socket and even after I turned the breaker off for the socket the overhead light remained functional. The click that I mentioned doesn't affect the sound of my system, so long as I do not turn it on or off when listening, but it annoys me just the same. Perhaps if I understand what is going on here I can either do something to fix it or simply resolve not to be annoyed by it anymore.
Please let me know if this is something you understand and can explain it to me.
Thanks!
128x128snackeyp
tonywinsc
583 posts
 
Sounds like a ground issue. Easy no cost check: First, pull the PS Audio out of the circuit and see if the pop persists when turning the light on/off. Next, if the pop is still present, back up to the RGPC 400 and pull it out of the circuit and see if the pop persists. You implied that your amp is not plugged into the PS Audio device but your preamp and front end components are? Are you using BAL interconnects or Single Ended (RCA)? See, if the amp is not plugged into the PS conditioner, there may be a slight difference in the ground potentials between your preamp and amp. That could make your system a bit more susceptible to electrical noise.
I had an older vacuum tube preamp in the late 80s to 2001 that would pick up hum from any dimmer switch in the house. It would be faint, but there. The only cure was to remove all of the dimmer switches. (Just a side antidotal story).
kjweisner's avatar
kjweisner
293 posts
 
I concur with Mrderrick and Elizabeth. If you have any unshielded interconnects, then wall switch arcs are the likely cause. You might try unhooking each IC and see if the clicking stops. That will tell you which one may be acting as an antenna and picking up the switch arc.
jallen
502 posts
 
Dimmers and fluorescent lights are not audio friendly. Change the switch. I just changed all the plugs and switches in my house, and you would not believe how bad the contacts were in the house wiring. Some of the wires turned bluish from too much heat (future fire)created by a loose connection. Get a tester for plugs, and evaluate the plugs and see if they were wired correctly in the room. Jallen
buconero117
2,311 posts
 
There are dimmers just made for fluorescent lights that are very effective. Also, there are electronic ballast especially made to be used with these special fluorescent dimmers. I have both installed in my listening room and they produce no noise or interference with all the tube electronics I have in the room. The lighting is 'cool' especially with natural light fluorescent bulbs.
mrderrick
292 posts
 
Elizabeth adds a very good point regarding loose connections.

Many devices are equipped with screw and stab connections.

The stab in connections are notorious for becoming loose over time.

Loose connections arc and arcing creates noise.

The better connection is the wire bent into a Sheppard's hook and placed clockwise around the screw, then closed into an eye and tightened.

The saying in the trade is " Push Or Screw, It's All Up To You".

Unfortunately time is money and most will push.

If you do decide to change out the device, try to find a heavy duty switch.

It will be rated 120/277 volt and either 15 or 20 amp.

There may even be mechanical clamp terminations on the device and that's OK.
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