I agree with El and Timo, but on different points. If you REALLY want to have a revelation, get rid of your internal crossover and go electronic. Passive bi-amping compared to active bi-amping with "direct drive" ( no passive crossovers between amp and drivers ) is kind of like the difference between bathing with your clothes on and off. One way works so much better, you'd have to be crazy to do the other once you experience the difference first hand. The difference in low level resolution, transparency and dynamics is eye / ear opening to say the least.
In order to do this and not run into problems, you'll need to contact the speaker manufacturer and get some help from them and / or find someone that can reverse engineer the crossover for you. As El mentioned, some speakers make use of notch filters, zobel networks, etc... Bypassing these would probably result in poorer performance, so you'd want to leave them in but get rid of the high pass and low pass sections. The more junk that you can pull out of the signal path between the amp and the drivers, the better off you'll be ( as a general rule ). Sean
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In order to do this and not run into problems, you'll need to contact the speaker manufacturer and get some help from them and / or find someone that can reverse engineer the crossover for you. As El mentioned, some speakers make use of notch filters, zobel networks, etc... Bypassing these would probably result in poorer performance, so you'd want to leave them in but get rid of the high pass and low pass sections. The more junk that you can pull out of the signal path between the amp and the drivers, the better off you'll be ( as a general rule ). Sean
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