Dedicated Line, Surge and Safety

Subaruguru - I'm interested in reading your explanation as to how two dedicated lines somehow isolate components from each other. If you put both lines on the same power leg to avoid ground potential problems, you're riding on the same big bus. Any noise or AC distortion is going to ride that bus, and every circuit on it will be affected. Neither the wire nor the circuit breaker have filters in them, and they flow current both ways.

So can you tell me how this constitutes isolation? If there's something I'm missing, please enlighten me.

Jdombrow, very funny. I figured if he wanted factual information, he'd just listen to his electrician, whom I simply agreed with. I guess I should have simply said to listen to his electrician.
I am not an electrician, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night. Seriously though, I do know a few, and they all will say that 10 gauge is overkill. Meaning you can get away with thinner wire (12 gauge), safely and legally and cheaper. Most folks associated with audio choose for overkill though. Many of us could get by with cheaper and thinner cables in our systems. I had to fight with my electrician to get 10/3 wire, he's a friend who was hell bent on saving me a couple bucks. He simply thought going from 12/3 to 10/3 was a waste of money. When I told him how much my power cords cost, he rolled his eyes and gave in.

Timo- Rex is correct, 10/2 actually has 3 conductors, they don't count the ground conductor. So 10/3 would have 4 conductors.

As Ez2hear said, 12ga is the minimum gauge for a 20A circuit. It's preferred by electricians over 10ga precisely because it's thinner. Thinner is easier to install. If you've ever worked with 10ga NMS, you know it is a major PITA - it makes any job take about twice as long.

12ga works fine for most 20A circuit applications. The only REAL reason to use it (i.e. besides tweaky weird audiophile reasons) is if you have to go a long distance. There's a maximum length spec for 12ga on a 20A circuit, and if you exceed that you need to use 10ga. BTW there's not too many residential situations that would cause you to exceed the max length. An almost sane reason to use 10ga is if you're going from one side of your house all the way to the other and it's a long way, 10ga will cause a little bit less voltage drop than the 12ga. That's one to use on more imaginative electricians.

If you've got one who just stares at you like you've lost your mind when you say you want a 12ft run of 10ga for your 20A circuit, tell him you may need to upgrade it to 30A at some point because your next hobby will be arc-welding! :)

10 gage is not overkill. You're house will not catch fire either by surges or because #10 wire happens to be capable of carrying extra current - the circuit breakers and the grounding system protects against that.

With respect to surges: surges are a temporary overvoltage or overcurrent condition which can cause thousands of amperes to flow. Your circuit breakers are rated for 10,000 amps of short circuit capability - which gives adequate protection for lightning strike surges and arc faults. However, a lot of capacitive energy can sneak through - therefore the purpose of the surge protector. Also, heavier gage wire has a higher fault current capability. For example, #10 wire can clear an 8,500 amp short in only 1/2 of a 60Hz cycle and withstand temparture spikes up to 250 celsius.. a #12 wire can withstand 5,000 amps. That's why a circuit breaker is rated to clear 10,000 amp shorts - a safety factor of two. So, technically, #10 wire offers better protection if by chance your circuit breaker doesn't clear the fault or a lightning surge current misses the ground rod. Now you know more than your electrician.

As for lengths of runs: a longer run will cause a higher voltage drop. Generally, you want to keep the voltage drop to 2.5% or less at your outlet. For a #12 wire, keep the length under 30 feet and voltage drop will never be a problem at max current draw of 20 amps. For #10 wire, you can run up to 60 feet before you have to consider voltage drop. Also, power supplies can operate at spec down to 114 volts (5% voltage drop) so you can double the above lengths and still be okay.

There is another "real" reason to use fatter wire: sound. My monoblock amps sound WAY better when I rewired with 10 wire. #10 wire has less inductance/capacitance to the instantaneous current demand called by the amplifiers.

Rex, the longer the loop distance between the dirtier digital onto its ac line to the analog preamp's input the lower the expected noise floor....
Gs5556, nice post. So why does the 10AWG sound better? It's TOTAL inductance is actually higher than the 12AWG, but maybe not as a ratio to its resistance, or current-handling capacity. If it sounds better I postulate that it's because it stays isothermal through those instantaneous current demands. Yes, 10AWG is overkill in these circuits, as even tiny temperature fluctuations won'y occur except perhaps with the very largest amps. There's some work to do here, as the normal electrical specs allow ratings that reflect a fairly large temperature rise...maybe WELL past what's audible! Is it the voltage drop that's audible or the fact that it fluctuates...or some other consequence?