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How do you solve "popping" when source switching?

I have a Rotel RSP 1068 processor running Innersound Eros MKII speakers through its own bass amp and cross-over and a Proton AA2120 amp for the panels and if I hit mute, or swith from CD to Video 1 and so-on I get a "pop" in my speakers and it happens with both the bass and panels so I know it is not an amp causing this, I sent put my Rotel for service because I thought it was the culprit. A fellow Agon member let me use hos old Carver pre-amp so I could enjoy music and such while mine is out and his does the same thing, so now I wonder what if anything I can do about it.
I am running everything into a Monster 2000 surge/conditioner. The only thing I can be sure of is it had to do with my speakers being very efficient (96db), are there any thoughts or pointers you guys can tell me so I can get rid of this problem, I doubt it is dangerous to the speakers but it is very annoying so please help!
thanks again all in advance...Chad
chadnliz
chadnliz OP
3,736 posts
 
When I hook it up to the direct inputs (multi-channel bypass) I do not get popping when I switch channels or CD tracks, I am having Rotel do a firmware up-grade so I hope when it comes back it is all resolved. I am in the meantime asking incase it still does it so I can be prepared for a fix..thanks again!
surfgod
229 posts
 
This is an obvious question but I have to ask, do you have a mute button on your pre-amp or one on your amplifer. Because if I forget to turn them on when switching the selector I get that same pop. Try lowering the music (Which Sucks) but what else can you do. This pop can be very loud which can damage the driver
chadnliz OP
3,736 posts
 
even mute pops when selected
fiddler
581 posts
 
Chadnliz, don't know if this will help or not, but for instance:

DACT recommends that the lead of a 1MOhm resistor be placed beneath the locking nut of their attenuators if the attenuator is mounted into an insulated part without ground, especially if the unit has metal knobs.

One lead of the resistor goes beneath the attenuator nut and the chassis mount and the other lead goes to signal ground.

This procedure is to to avoid static electricity generating audible noises in the speakers when the attenuator is operated.

I suspect this simple fix might cure your problem.
chadnliz OP
3,736 posts
 
hey thanks a bunch for all ideas, hope to have it resolved soon...all you are a great help!
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