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Here's How I Make My Equipment Racks

In response to a previous thread, here's how I make my
equipment racks:
List of equipment: 3/4" thick MDF cut to desired shelf
size
(4) 3/4" diameter 6' threaded steel rods
3/4" nuts and washers (8 per shelf)
Drill a 3/4" hole in the corner of each shelf in exactly the
same place. I do this by scribing a line with a square 1 1/2" inch in and using a nail set to punch a hole where the lines intersect. A drill press works great to drill the holes so they are all straight and true. Now that you have
a hole drilled in each corner of each shelf, simply screw
the whole thing together, adjusting each shelf to fit your
gear. Use a square to make sure your first shelf is straight, and measure each one likewise. If you do this
correctly, your rack will sit straight and level. If you
need to level it further, buy (4) 3/4 rod connectors, which
are about 3" high, and screw these into the bottom of the
rod and use them to level it. I paint the steel rod using
Krylon Industrial enamel (flat black looks best), and paint
the shelves to match your decor. This makes a very solid,
heavy audio rack. Total cost is about $40 for the steel
rod, $15 for the nuts and washers (about $1.00 a pound)
$20 for the MDF, and $5.00 worth of paint for a total under
$100. I've made several racks this way and have used the
same method to make CD racks.
Dave
Ag insider logo xs@2xdave43
caterham1700
271 posts
 
more addendums-
If you're still worried about slippage/accidents, you can stick self adhesive felt pads(the kind used beneath knick-knacks and furniture) to the tabletops beneath the spikes for a little added security.I suppose you could even glue washers to the table corners with the spikes sitting in the resulting recesses.

Ken
randy7241
2 posts
 
Ken - Thanks for the further thoughts and suggestions!

And have you been peeking in my windows? (smile) I have a black and a yellow labrador retriever!

-Randy
psychicanimal
1,738 posts
 
I bought Phillips head wood screws (#14 x 1 1/2") for my Ikearack. They should work fine with that flared 'bottom'.

Although I am, among other things, a professional grindersman, I just don't see myself grinding equal sized points freehand in my little apartment. I'll get some Michell cones with wood screws for the bottom table...

Thanks again Ken for sharing your knowledge.
subaruguru
1,376 posts
 
Ken,
No wonder you're running 4 weeks out! Get off the thread and get back to work--my check's enroute!
;>) Ern
jskupe
1 posts
 
Since these directions were posted, the LACK table now has HOLLOW legs! Sawing them down to size will require you to find a suitable wood plug to stuff the hole so you can put spikes into them. (The pressed wood plug in the unused end is almost impossible to get out.) I settled on a 2" X 2" X 4' (which is really something like 1.5 X 1.5) with 1/4" shims glued to two sides, and then sawed into 2" blocks. This fit snugly when smeared with carpenter's glue. Do the drilling before you glue them in. But in retrospect this simple DIY project spiraled into a much bigger hassle in "I Love Lucy" fashion.
BTW, not having the facilities for grinding my own, I bought spikes from PartsExpress. They worked fine.
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