Instructions to electrician about dedicated line


I just bought a Krell KAV-3250 and also am building a new house. What kind of specific instructions should I give to the electrician when he installs the 15 amp dedicated line. Krell recommends a 15 Amp line for the KAV-3250 amp. Is that all I need or should I ask for a 20 Amp line? Could I also hook up the receiver to this line?
Thanks
toubib46
If you can afford it, use BX and make it 10 ga.

Run 220 vac if you can to iso transformers for step down.

OR, use a single large ISO tranny in the basement to provide
local power... isolate each line with an RFI/EMI filter.

Put a big ass GROUND wire on your main service, and use
a real copper ground rod, have the earth prepared properly too.

MORE is always better in AC power.
Time out for a question!?!?!!!Does going with dedicated 20 amp lines allow for use of power conditioners like say PS Audio 600 or can they not use this much current?Thought I had read somewhere that these devices could not handle this amount of current but to do it anyway as dediucated lines would have greater impact on sound just don't waste $$ on conditioners latter?
As (almost) always great thread
Chazzbo
Chazzbo, the current draw on a 20 amp line is a maximum of 20 amps (then the fuse blows). The actual current draw depends on the equipment being hooked up to it and will generally be much less than 20 amps in any typical home system. You are, I believe, correct in stating that the PS Audio 600 is not designed to handle the maximum amperage a 20 amp line can deliver (it translates to about 2200 watts). But it also won't be able to handel all the amperage a 15 amp line can deliver (about 1650 watts). That's OK so long as the equipment being hooked up toe the PS Audio 600 does not demand more than the 600 can deliver (BTW, you can still use the other outlet on a duplex plug for other things). Why get 20 amps? In my mind, for future upgrades only -- and probably for big power amps only. Sean makes a good point about mixing and matching on a dedicated subpanel.
What if you ever change amps? I put in a whole house surge protector as well. It prevents outside problems from interfering but will not protect you from inside trouble(ie feedback from your a/c compressor). For that reason, I also use a line conditioner/surge protector at the unit. I like using GFIs also.
The answer to the, "Why 15A or 20A circuits" is really a code question. The smallest wiring allowed by the NEC for a power circuit in a residence is 14 gauge with 12 gauge being common. Since a 14 gauge wire will carry 15A, it's typical to install a 15A breaker on a 14 gauge circuit. Likewise with 12 gauge and 20A breakers.

Sean's (and others') suggestion to use 10 gauge wire in a 20A circuit is to reduce voltage drop in that circuit. 10 Gauge wire will carry 30A and could have a 30A breaker installed in the circuit. From a power delivery standpoint (up to 20A, of course), this circuit won't be any different with a 20A or 30A breaker installed. However, one might be able to find a higher quality 20A breaker for the same price as a regular 30A breaker.

The thing to remember is that wire is sized to carry a load and the breaker is sized to protect the wire, not the other way around. So, while it's OK to install a 20A breaker in a circuit wired with 10 gauge wire (your electrician will look at you funny, but what does he know?), it is NOT good (or legal) to install a 20A breaker on a circuit wired with 14 Gauge wire.