Stehno makes some very excellent points. However, i personally would not spend the money on the JPS cabling. While i do believe that AC cabling and geometry of said cabling can make a difference, i just don't think that it is an $18 per foot difference. I am currently looking for cabling that will perform optimally and not cost a fortune i.e. "the most bang for the buck". Along the same lines, i would look at the availability of various outlets. If you do go the dedicated ground routine, you may have to buy specialty outlets that float the ground connection separately from the conduit.
Obviously, the AC wiring and outlets are a matter of personal preferences / budget, so do what you think is best suited for your situation. I would stick with at least 10 gauge wire and nothing lighter though. You could use either 15 or 20 amp breakers using this approach, sizing them according to draw. This also takes into account safety precautions in terms of having a breaker so big that even "flaming" components would not trip it. Should you increase the load on a circuit that you originally install a 15 amp breaker on, you can always replace the breaker with a 20 amp and never be concerned about the wiring.
I would also add that you should remind the electrician that all of the circuits need to come off the same leg / phase of the circuit. In order to even out the load in the house, he may have to make some changes in your main breaker box.
Other than that, my experience is that dedicated lines do nothing to fight the noise that is already present coming in from the pole transformer. Such a set-up does offer an increased amount of isolation from other circuits within the building though. This can be further increased by running isolated grounds.
If you do go the isolated ground routine, you CAN NOT connect anything else to your audio system that is not plugged into your "standard" non-dedicated circuitry other than battery powered devices. Doing so would tie the two different grounds together, which could result in a lot of noise and what is even more important, a safety issue. As such, have all the lines put in now that you think you will ever need in the future.
I have never checked into "whole house surge supression", so i can't comment on that aspect of your question. I do not think it is a "bad idea", only that i'm sure that there are several different ways and products to achieve this. If you are interested in such an item, i would start researching it as soon as possible. The electrician may not be able to install such a device now, but he can do all of the necessary prep so that he would not have to "undo" all that he dows now to install such a device at a later date. Sean
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