Passive parts: Do they make a difference ?


For those of you that are "curious" or "unbelievers" about the effects that various grades of passive parts ( capacitors, resistors, diodes, etc... ) play in the sound and measurable performance of a circuit, take a look at this article by Bob Pease about dielectric absorption in capacitors on the National Semiconductor website.

Bob refers to "soakage" of the capacitor ( the cap is "soaking up energy" rather than passing it on ) instead of dielectric absorption, but it is the same thing using different terminology. While the article is technical by nature, one with a basic understanding can simply view the graphs and O'scope photo's and see that there truly are very measurable differences in performance amongst passive parts.

This article goes on to demonstrate how one can use lower grade passive parts and still obtain good performance, but additional corrective circuitry becomes a necessity if one takes that route. In audiophile lingo, this would be akin to building a sloppy circuit and then resorting to using tons of negative feedback to correct it. As such, the "most correct" approach would be to use higher grade parts to begin with. The end result of such an approach would be a shorter signal path with less potential for signal degradation to occur.

As a side note, Bob talks about the differences in how circuits lock or sample in an ADC ( Analogue to Digital Converter ). The same basic circuits / comments / observations would apply to a DAC ( Digital to Analogue Converter ) as they are basically the same circuits working in reverse.

Other than that, i'd love to see others contribute locations of other sites that have various points of view / comments on the "quality" of "passive parts". Obviously, this post and the info contained in the link are also open for debate, so fire away with comments as you see fit : ) Sean
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sean
Sean: an interesting question begs to arise - give me a box full of the best passive devices, and, if I were to build an amplifier (a rank amateur, me) how would it sound next to an amp built by, say, Nelson Pass with Radio Shack rejects? I do not doubt for a second that the quality of passive parts not only begets measurable effects but sonic ones as well. But I also believe that the ultimate determinant is the thinking and skill of the designer. What is described in the article is nuts and bolts physics, but an element of artistry has to be involved; almost crucial - a designer has to "read" the circuitry the way a conductor reads a score. A mix of artistry, engineering (manufacturing) and components, I believe, have to be synchronized to get the best out of an audio product.
I have zero experience building gear as a hobbyist, so although I never doubted in theory that passive parts could make audible differences, it was only when I got a phonostage with plug-in sockets for changing loading resistors that I was able to hear this for myself. After settling on the best loading value by substituting with decent but inexpensive resistors, I got some recommended premium resistors in that value. The sonic difference was far greater than I had imagined it would be. A resistor seems like the simplest of parts, and I wasn't sure exactly what I would hear when I sat down to do comparitive listening tests - I was mentally preparing to have to strain to hear any difference at all, maybe a touch more transparency, I guessed.

The expensive resistors did offer that (more clarity and resolution), but what surprised me most - and I was totally not prepared for - was that the premium jobs revealed the cheapies as being not tonally neutral. I don't know whether I would have even heard the colorations of the inexpensive resistors had I not done the comparision, but if I had, I sure wouldn't have thought to lay it at the feet of one measely resistor per channel. And the transient articulation, dynamics, and imaging palpability improved too. After getting a taste of the better stuff, the cheap resistors (and they weren't bottom of the barrel by any means) just sounded a distinct bit veiled and artificial in comparision - they simply didn't get out of the way like the premiums did. Now multiply this over the number of resistors in an entire circuit (OK, I know it's not quite that simple, but still...) and you begin to see how this sort of thing could matter quite a lot.
Gs: I agree wholeheartedly regarding the crucial importance of starting off with a well designed circuit and that designing such a circuit is somewhat of an "art". Having said that, i've heard some very good measuring and sounding circuits sound even better after "high grade" parts have been substituted.

As to your question about building an amp with high grade parts using less than optimum circuitry against an amp with mediocre parts and top notch circuitry, i would take the latter for multiple reasons. First of all, one could always upgrade the parts of the better circuit. Secondly, the "home-brew" amp might sound even worse than expected due to the ultra-revealing nature of the higher grade parts. As such, putting "top notch" parts into a horrible circuit can make things worse.

Only problem here is that many of the noticeable deficiencies that we hear are not so much from the poor circuitry but from the specific passive parts used. As such, if one had a product that was questionable in terms of whether it was worth upgrading or not might be a crap-shoot. Is the "mediocre" sound that you are hearing due to poor parts selection, poor circuitry or a combo of the two ?

Only way to really find out is to do the modifications on a step by step basis in a manner that is easily reversible. Using this approach, one can keep track as to what mods were more worthwhile in terms of sonic improvements for the money. Some changes will be noticeable on their own whereas others seem to be more of a cumulative effect. If one went whole hog and used truly great parts throughout the entire circuit and the sound was not what one expected, the limiting factor would probably be the lack of a quality circuit design.

One of my friends ( Lou ) who has done quite a bit of parts swapping has told me that using higher quality diodes / bridge rectifiers and swapping out the OEM caps and installing Black Gates will typically make a very noticeable difference in liquidity, transparency and "more correct" tonal balance. He thinks that this approach offers a far higher "bang for the buck" than doing any other modifications to the equipment. While i don't doubt this, i think that most products can benefit ( due to cumulative effects ) by taking things a step further and changing the wiring, jacks, increasing filter cap reserves, changing the jacks, etc... as needed. Obviously, some products use a higher grade of parts to begin with than others, so some of this may not be worth doing at all. As such, you have to assess each unit on its' own merits and procede from there. Sean
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