What is everyone using for dedicated AC lines???


I need to buy some dedicated AC cable.

What is everyone using? Romex?

I want the best performance, I will tear out the cable when I leave the house. If its not up to code, oh well, I'd rather have better performance anyways.

I thought about 10/3 Romex for the amp and 12/3 for the CD/Preamp.

What do you think?

Please, no arguements over this I need to buy cable ASAP!
asi_tek
Garfish ( and others using similar set-up's ): Even if you have four 20 amp breakers, you do realize that these are being fed by a single 30 amp breaker. As such, you are limiting the total current capacity of the sub-box to 30 amps total, regardless of how many breakers and their ratings in the secondary box.

From my line of thinking, you should have had the electrician tie the secondary breaker box into the mains. This would bypass the 30 amp breaker and allow you to pull as much as you needed from the mains. The only limitation at that point would be the master breaker on the smaller secondary box. In order to do this though, you would need to replace the 10 gauge wiring that goes from the AC mains to the secondary box with something heavier.

In my opinion, 8 gauge is sufficient to handle 30 amps continuously, so you would need at least 4 gauge for an 80 or possibly 100 amp service. That is, if you were ever going to pull that much power on a steady-state basis. The reason that they can get away with using smaller gauged wires in most installations is due to the fact that most people aren't pulling that hard on all of the circuits at the same time, so momentary overloads are not that big of a deal.

Please bare in mind that i am NOT a certified electrician and building / electrical code may vary from location to location. As such, the info that i or anyone else posts to a thread like this should always be verified at the local level prior to taking it for "gospel" and acting upon it.

As i've mentioned before, PLEASE correct me if i suggest something wrong, as this is NOT just a matter of opinion on stuff like this. It can be a matter of life, death and /or personal property loss. None of these are matters where mistakes should be allowed to slide as far as i'm concerned and those that are knowledgable and / or skilled professionals should chime in ASAP in such cases. I would much rather have a boot to the head than be responsible for possibly helping someone to kill themselves or harm their gear. If you don't know what you are doing with electricity and wiring, DON'T try this stuff on your own. Sean
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PS... Unlike 9 volt batteries, you should never put AC wiring into your mouth and touch it to your tongue to see if it is live : )
Dedicated 100 amp sub panel just for audio with three 110 volt and one 220 volt dedicated circuits.
I run THHN stranded # 10 doubled up for all hots, grounds and neutrals which gives me around 7 gauge conductors. Very nice for my amps. I use the 220 volt line for my power plant and two 110 volt lines for each amp and the last one for my Logans. I have found the two 10 doubled up is much better than single 10 gauge, I also twist the two conductors about 3-4 times per foot. Dedicated ground rod and all breakers and wire treated wit pro gold.
My next upgrade will be using two 12 gauge stranded conductors twisted around one 10 gauge solid conductor and giving it about 3-4 twists per foot, this should yield me about 5.5 gauge.
The way my dedicated lines are config, the system is dead quiet, the best it's ever been in regaurds to quiet, noise floor, blacker back ground, etc...
I think the dedicated sub really helps as nothing else is in the sub and everthing is in phase which is something that people over look as it does make a difference! Happy wiring!
Craig,
I consider $3/ft for cryo'd Romex excessive!...and still believe that better dielectric DOES matter.
Wow this thread is taking off, here's my take.

I just bought a "new" old house (with a view of course) :^)

I currently have a 100-amp service. I'm going to change that to 200 amps real soon.

Then I'm going to take out the existing sub panel (Approx 50 feet away) and upgrade it to a 40-space 200-amp sub panel.

I'll run a 2" conduit between the service and the sub-panel.

Then I'm going to pull two new hots, one Neutral (4/0 THHN cu rated for 200amps) a dirty ground and an Isolated ground.

I'll set both panels up with isolated ground bars, add a ground rod, replace the ground clamp at the water main, and run new bare copper continuous to both the ground rod and water main.

Then I'm going to tie the water and gas together with a jumper and two ground clamps, this I will do at the H/W/H for convenience and yes it is legal in CA.

After rewiring the new 200-amp sub panel I'm going to add another 100-amp sub panel on the other side of the house near my listening room (approx 150' away)

I will run a 1-1/4" conduit from the 200-amp sub to the 100-amp sub-sub. Then I'm going to size the wire for 120 amps (THHN cu) but only install a 100-amp breaker.

I will add another isolated ground bar at this panel.

Then I'll take six dedicated 20-amp circuits (#12 THHN Stranded) up to my listening room. Each with it's own neutral plus one isolated ground and one dirty ground. I may add a drain wire too (That's an idea Albert gave me awhile back that I found intriguing)

I'll be using industrial grade Hubbell I.G. 20 amp receptacles (Ground up of course) at my gear. That should get things rolling in the AC tweak department wouldn't you say.

OH, and yes I am an electrician and personally "Bang for the buck" this is as good as it gets IMO.
Glen: If you don't mind me asking, what is the second 200 amp sub-panel for ? If i read this right, you'll have a 200 amp main feeding a 200 amp sub-panel feeding a 100 amp sub-panel. The 200 amp main would appear to be for the whole house and you mention using the 100 amp sub-panel at / near your audio system. Where does the second 200 amp panel come into play in all of this ? Sean
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